A western summit (3,150m) of Monte San Lorenzo, seen from the Calluqueo Glacier to the west. The right skyline is the top of the northwest spur, climbed in May 2024. Photo: Raimundo De Andraca Over six days from May 13 to 18, 2024, during a c...
In January 2023, an international team visited the Turbio IV Valley and made several ascents. John Collis, Mike Coyle, and Gareth Leah climbed most of a south-facing wall beneath Cerro Tres Negros, finding many flared and mostly unprotectable crac...
El Cohete from the approach, showing the line of Apollo 13 (13 pitches, 7b+). Above the rock wall, the route continued about 700 meters to a snowy top. Photo by Julia Cassou. Wanting to go on an expedition with friends and colleagues, I organ...
No Rolling Stone (13 pitches, V5.10 A3), the first route up the Redside Wall in Impassable Canyon, Middle Fork of the Salmon River, Idaho. The wall was reached by a 22-mile hike and 3.5-mile swim and wade down the river. Photo: Matt Ward “Bea...
In late May, a group of three was attempting to climb King Trench (aka King’s Trench), the most frequented route up Mt. Logan (5,959 meters). Mt. Logan is the highest peak in Canada. This area of Kluane National Park and Reserve (KNPR) is known fo...
A skier captured images of his own sliding fall down a couloir on Little Bear Peak, a Colorado 14er. He impacted rocks in the choke but fortunately stopped soon below and was not very seriously injured. Photo: Dan Apodaca On April 15, I (male...
On Wednesday, March 15, a skier and a snowboarder departed from Heather Meadows near the Mt. Baker Ski Area, planning to climb and descend both Herman and Slate mountains. They climbed the south side of Mt. Herman to 6,000 feet (about 250 feet bel...
Looking up the avalanche path and debris on the north side of Hurd Peak. (O) Location of Skier 2 at the time of the avalanche. (X) Estimated location of Skier 1. Photo: Eastern Sierra Avalanche Center On the morning of June 14, a party of two...
Climbing the North Couloir of Mt. Emerson, shortly before falling ice struck the team. The frozen waterfall that was shedding ice is seen high on the right. Team Photo Our party of four planned to ski the North Couloir on Mt. Emerson (13,210 ...
Gunky is a popular route in Sinks Canyon that protects well with hexes and nuts. Familiarity with passive gear and more cam-placing skills might have helped prevent an accident that occurred in July 2023. The high X marks where Taylor fell, a...
The East Face of Teewinot was the scene of a fatal fall in August 2023. A late start, a large team size, and reliance on a popular hiking app contributed to this tragedy. Photo: Acroterion | Wikimedia On August 10, a team of nine climbers wer...
The 2023 Teton climbing season saw several incidents involving rockfall and climbers taking shortcuts. One incident occurred on July 30, involving a 26-year-old female climber descending the Southwest Couloir on the Middle Teton (12,809 feet). Th...
At 10 a.m. on July 30, the NPS was notified of a 23-year-old female climber who had sustained injuries the day before during a fall, while roped, on the Valhalla Traverse on the west side of the Grand Teton. The climbing party of two was able to s...
On July 20, the NPS received a cell phone call reporting that a 41-year-old male climber had fallen and was unresponsive. The injured climber had been leading the Owen Chimney feature (5.5) on the Grand Teton (13,770 feet) and had fallen ten minut...
On July 14 at 3:45 p.m., NPS personnel received a cell phone call from two young climbers stuck on Teewinot (12,330 feet). The male climbers, aged 19 and 20 years, reported that they were on a snowfield north of the Idol and Worshipper rock format...
At 5 a.m. on June 13, NPS personnel received an emergency notification from a climbing party descending the Koven Route (3,000 feet, 5.4) on Mt. Owen (12,933 feet). A 57-year-old male climber was showing signs of high altitude illness (HAI) and ex...
In this highly unusual accident, the carabiner on the rope-bearing end of an alpine quickdraw appears to have acted like a belay device configured in guide mode. The load-bearing/climber strand (on top) trapped the belay strand (on bottom, under...
The Tooth is one of the most popular summits in the Cascades and was the scene of a fatal solo fall in August 2023. The climber was probably traversing northwest toward the Fang (sunlit spire on the right) when she fell. Photo: Climbing partner ...
On June 7, Jessi (30) and Tyler (33) were on their way to five days of rock climbing in the Enchantment Lakes area. First, they had to cross Aasgard (a.k.a. Colchuck) Pass (7,841 feet). Jessi wrote to ANAC: It was early season and there would st...
The Northeast Couloir of Colchuck Peak rises through the center of the face. Four climbers were carried to the bottom of the couloir in an avalanche triggered when they were in the vicinity of the yellow circle in February 2023. Three perished. ...