Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice – Possible Avalanche Washington, Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge

On Monday, May 26, an Alpine Ascents International guided party started an ascent of Mt. Rainier via Liberty Ridge. Led by guides Matt Hegeman and Eitan Green, John Mullaly (Seattle), Uday Marty (Singapore), Mark Mahaney (St. Paul), and Erik Kolb ...

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| Published 2014


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Failure – No Knot on Rope End, Fatigue Washington, North Cascades, Le Petit Cheval, Spontaneity Arête

On September 6 my husband, Eric Peter Anderson (28), and I (27) summited Le Petit Cheval via the Spontaneity Arête (5.7) for our first anniversary. It was a gloriously clear day and we took our time on the route, admiring the views and relishing t...

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| Published 2014 | Author Dandelion Dilluvio


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice – Anchor Failure Washington, Snoqualmie Pass, Kiddie Cliff

On December 3 I left the Alpental parking lot around 10 a.m. with a good friend to find some ice to top-rope. This trip was training for bigger alpine ice objectives to follow in 2015. After about two hours of hiking and hunting, we found a gully ...

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| Published 2014 | Author Josh Hancock


Accident Reports ANAM
Crevasse Fall – Poor Position Washington, North Cascades National Park, East McMillan Spire

On July 29, my husband, Arthur Greef (52), and I (Colleen Hinton, 52) left camp at 6:30 a.m. with the goal of climbing the west ridge of East McMillan Spire (Class 3/4), followed by the southeast face of West McMillan Spire (Grade II 5.7). The wea...

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| Published 2014 | Author Colleen Hilton


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error – No Knots in Rope Ends Washington, Mt. Garfield, Infinite Bliss

On September 7, at 5 p.m., Ross Halverson and a partner completed Infinite Bliss, a 23-pitch 5.10c that climbs the south flank of Mt. Garfield, near North Bend. They texted a friend from the summit, took a few photos, then immediately headed back ...

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| Published 2014 | Author Mathew Denton


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay, Inexperience Virginia, Richmond, Manchester Wall

On Sunday, November 30, I (Jake Jones) watched as a climber fell approximately 40 feet to the ground while leading. At the time I had just been lowered to the ground after climbing a different route. I happened to look to my right and saw a male c...

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| Published 2014 | Author Jake Jones


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice – Ascending Error, Darkness Vermont, Mt. Pisgah (Lake Willoughby), The Tablets

On December 27, 2013, at the base of the center Tablet at Lake Willoughby, my friend John (37) and I (32) congratulated ourselves after a 60-meter rappel to the ground, shortly after sunset. We had just finished our third two-pitch ice route that ...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Belayer Error Kentucky, Muir Valley, Tectonic Wall

During the early evening on Saturday, October 4, a female climber (20) was leading the sport route Plate Tectonics (5.9). When she was between the second and third bolt, about 26 feet off the ground, she fell. Neither the climber nor the belayer w...

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| Published 2014 | Author Rick Weber


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Climbing Unroped Utah, Zion National Park, Spearhead

On October 19, Christopher Spencer (47) of San Jose, California, was killed after falling from the approach to Iron Messiah (5.10+) on the Spearhead formation. Spencer and his partner were scrambling up the easy (low 5th class) but exposed buttres...

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| Published 2014


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Protection Pulled Out, Rockfall Utah, Glen Canyon Recreational Area, Lake Powell

On April 5, a 30-year-old male climber from Grand Junction, Colorado, began aid soloing up Gregory Butte, located near the mouth of Last Chance Bay, at 7 a.m. A little after 9 a.m., he was over 500 feet up the wall when a piece he had placed pulle...

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| Published 2014


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error – Possible Equipment Failure Utah, Arches National Park, Tower of Babel

On September 23 a climber fell between 75 and 100 feet while rappelling Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3) on the Tower of Babel. NPS rangers responded to the scene and found the climber lying on the ground at the base of the route. His partner was still d...

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| Published 2014


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Utah, Bell's Canyon, Bell's Beast

On November 7, Michael Lydon (50) was killed after falling down nearly a full pitch of moderate terrain at the top of Beast (5.11a), a five-pitch climb on the Bell’s Beast formation. Lydon and his partner, Chris Wood (33), had first climbed Beauty...

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| Published 2014 | Author Justin Grisham


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Belay South Dakota, Victoria Canyon, Foot Fist Way

Jimmy Burckhard, 31, was climbing the bolted route Foot Fist Way (5.13a) in a limestone canyon southwest of Rapid City on September 26. He had previously worked on the route a couple of weeks earlier. On this day he climbed partway up the route, y...

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| Published 2014


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Protection Pulled Out Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Chouinard's Crack

On October 19, Ted Wogan (22) and Climber 2 began climbing Chouinard’s Crack (5.9) late in the afternoon. Wogan placed one piece of protection and followed it with a second piece at 25 feet. He initially placed a cam but then, wanting to save the ...

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| Published 2014 | Author Matt Crawford


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Exceeding Abilities, Inadequate Protection Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Zebra Zion

On May 4, Forrest Koran (24) and Suruthai Pokaratsiri-Goldstein (27) began climbing a four-pitch trad route called Zebra Zion (5.10a). The climbers were members of an “Advanced Rock” class hosted by a local climbing organization. Koran led the fou...

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| Published 2014 | Author Matt Crawford


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow – Ski Mountaineering Oregon, Mt. Jefferson

Around 4:30 or 5 p.m. on July 21, after skiing down the Whitewater Glacier high on Mt. Jefferson, Miko Smilenski lost an edge during a steep turn and fell about 100 feet near treeline. The 56-year-old experienced skier hit many exposed rocks durin...

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| Published 2014 | Author Jeff Scheetz


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow – Exceeding Abilities, Weather Oregon, Middle Sister

On November 12, Ryan Burton (25) and Benjamin Newkirk (39) left the trailhead at Pole Creek and hiked six miles to Camp Lake, where they set camp and rested before departing around 6:30 p.m. Weather reports at the time and for the three days follo...

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| Published 2014 | Author Matt Crawford


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow/Ice – Failure to Self-Arrest Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side

On May 24, James Adams (59) slipped on ice while descending the South Side Route. He was unable to self-arrest and slid several hundred feet into a fumarole (an opening in a glacier caused by ice melting due to volcanic fumes). Others witnessed hi...

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| Published 2014 | Author Jeff Scheetz


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow – Cornice Collapse, Climbing Unroped, Poor Position Oregon, Mt. Hood, South Side

On May 13, Robert Cormier (57) attempted to summit Mt. Hood via the popular South Side Route with two companions. One team member suffered a leg cramp, and the party separated as Cormier summited ahead of his companions. He traversed too far north...

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| Published 2014 | Author Jeff Scheetz


Accident Reports ANAM
Rock Slide Canada, Alberta, Grand Sentinel

On August 15, 2014, Will Richardson-Little and I started hiking toward the Grand Sentinel at 7:20 a.m. from the Moraine Lake parking lot. Our objective was to climb the normal route on the south face (4 pitches, 5.9). We had a standard rack, doubl...

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| Published 2014 | Author Eric Chow