During the approach to Huang Guan Feng (Crown Peak) in 2014 (AAJ 2015), I saw a striking ice line on the northeast face of Abi (5,694m). In late January, Enzo Oddo (France) was around and psyched to make an alpine ascent, and I felt this would be a perfect target for us.

We started from the head of the Shuangqiao Valley at 11 a.m., and by 4 p.m. we were threading through deep snow below the face. We pitched the tent and had time to check out the first couple of pitches, which were technical mixed. By 5 the next morning we were climbing. Enzo climbed the first two mixed pitches in the dark, after which one more mixed pitch led to a snowfield. Above, 300m of simul-climbing brought us to the crux ice and mixed pitches. We managed these quickly, arrived at an amphitheater, and then climbed a couple more technical mixed pitches to the summit ridge, where we found a nice ledge on which to bivouac. Next morning we reached the summit, descended to our tent, and continued to the valley floor. The route is one of the most complete, technical, and beautiful I have done in this area.

Marcos Costa, China