Mount Foraker. A Japanese expedition which climbed Mount McKinley sent two members, Gentaro Sakae and Hidenobu Tezuka, to the summit of Foraker. It is not known by which route.
Mount Everest. Our expedition consisted of New Zealander Nick Banks, American Ray Genet, Swiss Hans von Känel, Germans Tilman Fischbach, Günter Kämpfe, Dr. Herman Warth, my wife Hannelore Schmatz and me as leader. We left Kathmandu on July 31 but ...
Pumori. The four members of our expedition were Pierre Faivre, Jean-François Lemoine, Guy Mevellec and I, all mountain guides. We made an alpine-style ascent of the south ridge (French route of 1972) and descended the east ridge, the normal route....
Peaks on the Kaskawulsh Glacier. Six members from the Queen Mary College Mountaineering Club of the University of London undertook a two-week expedition to the Kaskawulsh Glacier. We commenced from the south end of Kluane Lake on July 11 and proce...
From April 14 to May 5 Louise Jarry, Vicki Sahanatien, Doug Stern, Vivian Wasiuta, and I made a ski traverse of an unnamed icefield on the Cumberland Peninsula from Iqalugajut Fiord to Kaniqturusiq Fiord (south fork of Padle Fiord), all east of Ki...
Vanguard Peak. The same party. Listed in Guidebook as having elevation of 8800 ft. The summit, which bore no cairn, is as high as Mt. Niles, and therefore about 9600 ft. Guidebook probably refers to slabby E. shoulder prominent from Wapta camp, wi...
North and South of Pelechuco, Cordillera Apolobamba, 1985 and 1986. The tortuous road from Ulla Ulla to Pelechuco roughly divides the Cordillera Apolobamba into a northern half that extends from Bolivia into Peru and a southern half that lies enti...
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. Craig McGee, Sean Easton, and Eamonn Walsh spent time on the south side of Waddington late in July. Their major accomplishment was an outstanding new ice route (Uber Groove, 600m, ED1 ice to 90°) well left of...
P 6247, South of Gorichen, Arunachal Pradesh, 1987. A 37-member team of the 21st Mountain Division of the Indian Army was led by Lieutenant Colonel Subhendu Sen. They left Chansari railway station in Assam on September 29, 1987 and went via Sela t...
Shishapangma, 1981. In A.A.J., 1982 we mentioned the ascent of Reinhold Messner and Friedl Mutschlechner but we lacked details. The pair got to the summit on May 27, 1981 by a route which lies to the right of the normal route. An article with a sk...
Churup, 496spa-$mos. On October 2,I placed my tent at the upper Churup Lake and the next day broke trail to the base of the wall, where I left ropes, harness, and ice ax. On October 4 it took 1 hour and 30 minutes to return to the base, thanks to ...
Ranrapalca, Southwest Ridge. After having faced the Customs bureaucrats of Callao, we split into two groups. Five of us packed the equipment we brought in the plane and went beyond Huaraz to reconnoiter. The last two of us hired a customs-broker, ...
Lichtenberg Mountain, Winter Ascent. Ken Johnson and I climbed a delightful mixed route on December 16. We skied a couple of miles to Valhalla Lake directly below Lichtenberg Mountain and northeast of Stevens Pass. Leaving our skis behind, we star...
HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIIPMENT California, Yosemite National Park, Polly DomeOn May 16, 1987, at 1445, three climbers at the top of the third pitch of the Great White Book on Polly Dome were requesting assistance after having been cau...
FALL ON ROCK, LOWERING ERROR-LOST CONTROL OF BELAY AND NO KNOT IN END OF ROPE, NO HARD HATColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, RinconOn January 19, James Harr (25) fell to his death when his partner Dave Booton lost control of the climbing rope h...
Ganesh II Attempt. Nine Swiss climbers led by Roland Garin attempted to climb Ganesh II. They wanted to climb the west ridge from the col between Ganesh II and Pabil (Ganesh IV). They placed two camps above Base Camp and planned a Camp III at 6700...
Big Four, North Face. January 3, 1974, Rich Carlstad and Cal Folsom climbed the gully to the east of the standard north rib route. Descent was made by Route Two to the saddle between Hall Peak and Big Four. 13 hours round trip.
Mount Chamberlain, Mount Whitney Area; Incredible Hulk, Little Slide Canyon; Outguard Spire, Little Slide Canyon. In September, Julie Brugger and I climbed a new route to the left of the Fiddler-Harrington route on the north face of Mount Chamberl...
Colorado, North Maroon. On 15 August Edward H. Hilliard (47), and Ann Noyes Fowler (39), Rodney Aller (53), and Rodney Aller, Jr. (21) started at 7:00 a.m. from the bench at timber line below the dam on the northeast side of the North Maroon.There...
The complete reports of the climbing accomplished by the Andes Expedition of the D. u. O. A. V. has just appeared in its Zeitschrift for 1929. The purely mountaineering aspects of the trip were often subordinated to the necessity of assisting in t...