North Twin, north face, House-Prezelj. In early April 2004 American Steve House and Slovenian Marko Prezelj made the third ascent (Lowe-Jones, 1974; Blanchard-Cheesmond, 1985) of the daunting 4,500' north face of North Twin, one of the great prize...

Stanford Coast Range Expedition, 1954NICHOLAS B. CLINCHAt noon, June 25th, Bill Fisk, chief pilot for Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc., landed his red Norseman float plane so gently on the waters of Dumbell (Ghost) lake that his seven passengers never kne...

In mid-April photographer Corey Rich asked if I wanted to join a 10-day climbing trip in the Brooks Range with the man himself, Tommy Caldwell. How could I say no? The trip came together last minute, and we didn’t even know where we were going...

Watkins Bjerge and Gunnbjorns Fjeld areas, first ascent claims. As a frequent visitor to Greenland (10 expeditions) perhaps I can offer some corrections and additional information that might clarify claims of ascents in the region of Gunnbjorns Fj...

FALL INTO CREVASSE—INADEQUATE PROTECTION, WEATHER AND STRANDED—WEATHER, EXPOSURE—HYPOTHERMIAWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn June 6, Mount Rainier Climbing rangers responded to two mountaineering accidents on the Ingraham Direct Glaci...

Trango Pulpit, More Czech, Less Slovak. In July, the Czech/Slovak expedition consisting of Ivo Wondrácek, Tomáš Rinn, Pavel Weisser and Michal Drašar (all Czech) left Prague June 18. Jaroslav Dutka from Slovakia had problems with his transit visas...

Colorado Mountain Club. “All aboard for the Great South Circle Trip! Great North Circle Trip and Hall’s Spires leave tomorrow at 7:29 A.M. promptly! Mt. Bonneville on Thursday, rain or shine.” No, not the announcer at Grand Central. This comes fro...

Tirich Mir, Attempt from North. The Fukuoka Mountaineering Association Expedition to Tirich Mir was composed of Daisuke Suematsu, leader, Isao Shinkai, Yasushi Matsumoto, Seiji Tsuruta, Shozo Sano, Tsuguo Tsuruhisa, Yasuzo Fukada, Tokachi Uemura, ...

FALL ON SNOW/ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INADEQUATEEQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Pipeline GullyOn March 9, Robert Douglas (39), John Corse (38), and Colin O’Farrell (23) became involved in a situation requiring climbing ...

ORRIN HANNING BONNEY 1903-1979The American Alpine Club and the mountaineering fraternity of the American Rockies lost a staunch supporter when Orrin H. Bonney succumbed to a heart attack on June 28, 1979 as he was preparing for his annual trip fro...

The North Ridge of Mt. KennedyIn 1968, four young men pitted themselves against one of North America’s greatest challenges. Nearly 30 years later, they tell their story.by Todd S. ThompsonDavid Seidman and I walked into Brad Washburn’s light-fille...

K2: Mountain of Mountains. Reinhold Messner and Alessandro Gogna. Kaye & Ward, London and Oxford University Press, New York, 1981. 177 pages, 31 black and white photographs, 109 color photographs, 6 sketches, 4 maps. $35.00This is principally ...

Mermoz, Padre Viento; Guillaumet, The Gambler; St. Exupery, east pillar variation. Jared Ogden and I arrived in the Fitz Roy region on December 1 and found several unclimbed ice lines in condition. On the east face of the Mermoz we did the first a...

Mt. Goode by Catamaran, Cascades. One of the important unclimbed faces among the large peaks in the Northern Cascades was the east face of Mt. Goode, rising in a long rock and ice precipice from the North Fork of Bridge Creek. To reach it one must...

Kingnait Fiord, Baffin Island. During July and August, I led a return expedition to the previously unexplored valley running northwest from the head of Kingnait Fiord. Here in 1972 we had discovered spectacular alpine peaks and miles of walls in a...

Maine: (2) Appalachian Mountains, Mt. Katahdin. On 28 July 1951 Marcia Doolittle, about 22 years old, of Schenectady, New York, fell forty feet from a point near the top of the Chimney. Miss Doolittle and her companion, David Chipman of Boston, Ma...

Cordon de los Pioneros, various ascents. In December our group climbed previously virgin summits in this range, south of Pico Bicentenario. None currently has a name, and all were technically easy. Italians claimed to have climbed a summit here, b...

DOUGLAS BYRON HALL1969-1997On January 25, the earth lost a most remarkable individual and a great creative spirit. Doug Hall was killed in a dramatic avalanche while climbing the notorious Fang route in Provo Canyon, Utah. He left behind a legacy ...

Vinson Massif, west face, Purple Haze Couloir. It was January 15, 2005 and we had been stuck in Vinson base camp for several days, waiting for clear weather so we could fly to Patriot Hills and then home. The weather was cloudy enough to prevent a...

The Totem Pole—And a Whole New Adventure. Paul Pritchard. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 1999. 16-page photo insert. 216 pages. $22.95.'The Totem Pole, Paul Pritchard’s first work since winning the Boardman Tasker award in 1997 for Deep Play, is a f...