The Charakusa Valley has been so well documented, and seen activity from some of the biggest hitters in the alpine climbing community, I won’t waste any time trying to sell it to you. Shingo Ohkawa and I arrived in the valley in early July, ...
Will Sim and I (U.K.) had never been to the Himalaya. Together we’d climbed dozens of hard routes in the Alps, as well as taken part in expeditions to Patagonia and Alaska, but we’d never made it to the bigger peaks. The problem is knowing wher...
The pioneering photographer Vittorio Sella took his famous picture of the Muztagh Tower in 1909. Since then only five expeditions have climbed one or both of the twin summits [the east is the main top, the west several meters lower]: Briti...
Looking for somewhere to spend a nice summer holiday, I didn’t think I would once again be going to the Trango Glacier. But if you ask me now, “Why again?” my answer would be simply that I love this place. Martin Krasnansky and Michal S...
While at Trango base camp Jakob Schweighofer and I climbed three possible new routes. On August 9, and with the Slovakian Martin Krasnansky, we put up Nilam Najang (the Inside Dream) on the southeast pillar of a formation across the glacier we h...
Willis Brown (Canada) and I established what we believe to be a new route in Ala Archa National Park on October 15, 2012. After acclimatizing on an ice couloir on Bachichiki and an attempt on Semenova, we climbed a route on the north-north...
“Libecki! I have never been so fucking scared in my life!” Ethan Pringle’s yell from 80 feet above startled me to attention. I’d been lost in the view of electric-blue icebergs floating in the sea a mile away. We were 1,500 feet up—...
After their climbs in the Trango area, Aymeric Clouet, Christian Trommsdorff, and Patrick Wagnon continued up the Baltoro for their main objective, the west face of Gasherbrum IV (7,925m). Once established at base camp, after more bad weather a...
Before Aymeric Clouet, Christian Trommsdorff, and Patrick Wagnon ventured further up the Baltoro Glacier to make an attempt on Gasherbrum V (see report), I accompanied them to the Trango Group. After an approach to Shipton base camp, a warm-up ...
In June the four-man French team of Antoine Bletton, Pierre Labbre, Matthieu Maynadier, and Se?bastien Ratel connected lines of weakness up the previously untouched right side of the southwest face of Latok II (7,108m), just failing to rea...
After returning to Skardu for a rest after a new route on K7, Kyle Dempster and Hayden Kennedy joined Josh Wharton (USA) on the Choktoi Glacier. There have been many attempts to climb the Ogre from the southeast, nearly all via the elegant sout...
In five expeditions to different areas of the Karakoram, I’ve climbed virgin peaks and new routes up to 7,000m, but never seen a place like Snow Lake, its particular features making it so aptly named. In July and August we had to approach th...
While completing the classic trek from Skardu up the Baltoro Glacier and over the Gondokhoro La to Hushe, Anis Hussain, Raza Meer, Zakir Hussain Sadpare, Fida Ali Sultanpa (all Pakistan, the first a guide), and Carlos Penalva (Spain) climbed...
Searching for a part of the Karakoram that might offer solid rock and had rarely been visited, I decided on the Solu Glacier. Only a few expeditions had ever gone there, most peaks were still untouched, and parts of the valley featured some of ...
Approaching from Chalt through Bar and Baltar, Italians Florian and Martin Riegler, accompanied by photographer Monika Mehlmauer and Christoph Mohl (Austria), attempted the ca 1,000m rock wall that forms the southwest face of Darwo Chhok on ...
Led by veteran Himalayan winter mountaineer Krzysztof Wielicki, a small Polish expedition arrived at Broad Peak base camp on January 23 and began establishing camps on the normal route. At 5:15 a.m. (dawn) on March 5, Maciej Ber...
Although difficult weather conditions shut down all but one expedition attempting 8,000m peaks in Pakistan, a Spanish pair succeeded on the lower Laila Peak above the Ghondogoro Glacier. Laila (6,096m), well seen on the standard trek...
The idea of climbing the Mummery Rib accompanied me to Nanga Parbat in 2008. Retracing the line attempted by the British legend Alfred Mummery would have been unsporting in anything but alpine style, and in 2008 this was not possible. Inst...
The complete Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat was undoubtedly one of the most famous unclimbed lines on the great peaks of the Karakoram/Himalaya, having been attempted many times, and by some of the world's greatest mountaineers. It is arguably th...
During climbs of Koh-e-Rank in the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan, Pat Deavoll from New Zealand photographed the little-known Shayaz Massif, across the border in Pakistan. (This massif should not be confused with the much higher Shayoz Zom, ...