South of Potala Shan, above the Shuangqiao Valley, the Central Tower lies between Eagle Rock (ca 5,300m) to the west and Warglesei (ca 5,300m) to the east. As these three peaks form a cirque around the head of a hanging valley containing Baihaizi Lake (White Lake, 4,600m), we have tentatively call these the Three Baihaizi Mountains.

On July 30, Naoki Ohuchi and I set up base camp by the lake. We began climbing the 510m southwest face on August 2. The approach took more time than imagined, with moraine followed by three pitches on snow leading to the foot of the wall. Ohuchi led up thin cracks and over bulges using aid, while I carried the loads that we eventually deposited on the upper terrace. We rested at base camp on the 4th, then began again next day. After two bivouacs we reached the ridge between Central Tower and Warglesei, where our attempt ended. We then descended to civilization, where we met two other friends, Koji Sano and Yusuke Yamazaki.

On the 13th all four climbers re-established base camp by the lake. On the 15th we reclimbed six pitches and cached equipment, took a rest day, and then on the 17th began climbing in two pairs. That day we climbed 12 pitches, led by Ohuchi and me (A1 VI+ on pitch two, and thereafter IV to VI- with aid on three pitches). After a bivouac on the south-southeast ridge, Yamazaki led pitches 13 and 14 (VI- and VI), I led 15 (VI+ A1), and Sano led the last two (IV-) to reach the top, just left of a 15mmonolithic summit block.