Daogou West, North Ridge, First and Second Ascent Details

China, Sichuan, Qionglai Shan, Siguniang National Park
Author: Xia Zhongming. Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

The Daogou peaks (East, 5,466m; West, 5,422m) are steep, rocky mountains, the eastern flanks of which are accessed from the upper Changping Valley. The name comes from their location. Head north and then northwest into the upper Changping, then turn back southwest into a subsidiary valley: Daogou means "reverse valley."

The peak was first climbed in 2006 from the Shuangqiao Valley to the west. In 2008 (mentioned, with no detail, in AAJ 2011), Chen Hui, Gu Qizhu, and Pen Xiaobing made the second ascent via a new route up the northeast couloir and north ridge. Over five days in October 2013, Chen Hui, Pen Xiaobing, and Yang Xiufeng repeated this route, which can now be described. The approach couloir (scree and snow to 50°) gave about 930m of climbing above base camp at 4,350m, and Camp 2 was placed at the couloir’s exit at 4,900m. Next day they climbed the 40–50° snow ridge/face above to Camp 3 at 5,100m, and the day after they climbed 55m along the crest (M3) to Camp 4 at the same altitude, then reconnoitered four more pitches, leaving a rope on the second. On the 12th they climbed a total of seven pitches on the final tower (5.9+ M4+) to reach the summit. Belay bolts were placed on some of these pitches (and at the head of the couloir). A further day was needed for descent.



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