During the 2023 season in the Mohonk Preserve, there were numerous climbing-related incidents that resulted in either lower- or upper-extremity injuries. Much effort has been put forth within the climbing community to help educate climbers on safe...
The Prow is a prominent formation of not-so-high-quality granite in the Sandia Mountains. Bad rock quality and poor route selection played roles in an accident on November 25. Photo: Anna Brown. On November 25, Brian Beyer (male, 25) was clim...
On the northwest ridge of Peak 132. Photo: Piotr Tomala. In January 2024, Grzegorz Bielejec, Piotr Tomala, and I reached the Shimshal Valley and on the 14th began our approach from Ziarat (ca 2,735m) up the Southeast Karun Valley. In summer a...
The difficult approach to the upper Southeast Karun Valley. Photo: Masha Gordon In July, inspired by lines on a Jerzy Wala map, together with ample opportunities for first ascents in a less explored area of the Karakoram, Oswaldo Freire, Josh...
In September, Victor Saunders and I made the first ascent of Yawash Sar I (6,258m), a shapely peak at the head of the Koksil (a.k.a. Shop Dur) Glacier, located in the Khunjerab Group of the Ghujerab Mountains, very near the frontier with China. [I...
Zdeněk Hák traversing the western flank of the south spur of Batura V between camps 1 and 2, en route to the first ascent of Muchu Chhish. Sanglamamar is in the background. Photo: Jaroslav Bánský. I had planned to visit Afghanistan’s Hindu Ku...
Looking for a route on the west ridge of Sachban Sar. Photo: Takemi Suzuki. At the end of the summer, Ryo Masumoto, Takaaki Nagato, Takemi Suzuki (photographer and filmmaker), Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama, and I drove via Ishkoman to the Karamb...
Alex Manoliu and Ionuț Papa from Romania reached the Ak-su Valley in early July, hoping to repeat the famed Perestroika Crack on Slesova Peak and possibly to establish a new line of their own. When poor weather kept them off Perestroika Crack for ...
In late May, I completed a new route on the north face of Angels Landing. Civil Disobedience (1,250’, 10 pitches, V 5.9 A3) takes a direct, independent, and rather sheer path immediately right of the historic Lowe Route (1,200’, 12 pitches, V 5.10...
Sean McLane leading pitch eight (the second of three M9 pitches) on The Penitent Path, a week after redpointing the 12-pitch route. Photo: Jon Jugenheimer. After about 20 days of work over two months, Jon Jugenheimer and I completed what cou...
In August 2024, friends and I established two routes on Ptarmigan Mountain (12,324’) on the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). I first came across the Ptarmigan Towers while flipping through Richard Rossiter’s RMNP guidebook; I hike...
The Lone Eagle Cirque, on the west side of the Continental Divide in the Indian Peaks Wilderness, is known for breathtaking views, beautiful alpine lakes, and the classic north face of Lone Eagle Peak (11,946’), climbed by brothers Joe and Paul St...
Mitchell Steinman following the 5.11+ first pitch of the 1978 route Pipeline. Photo: Stefanos Apostle In early September, Mitchell Steinman and I spent about a week in the Cirque of the Moon. After the 12-mile approach and its four river cros...
The line of Peavine Palace (3,000’, IV WI6 M7), high above the Peavine Cabins in the Chitistone Valley, Wrangell Mountains. Photo: Ethan Berkeland Jonathan Koenig and I first acquainted ourselves with the Chitistone Valley in March 2022 and q...
Paweł Haldas climbing in rough conditions on the south face of the Mooses Tooth. Photo: Marcin Tomaszewski. When Paweł Hałdaś (Poland) and I set off for Alaska in February, we had no definite plans but two areas on our radar: the Kichatna mas...
The long left-trending ramp at the start of Sports (4,660’, Alaska Grade V, 5.10 A1 AI4 M6 90° snow) terminates in a cave that pinches down to a chimney. Michael Telstad aims for the light on the other side. Photo: Eli Spitulnik Michael Telst...
Gašper Pinti leading one of the best pitches on The Great Wall, on the south face of Mt. Dickey, on the second day of the climb. Photo: Tom Livingstone On April 2, Paul Roderick slowed the Otter plane and we landed in a whoosh of snow. Gašper...
In the Teton Range, it's hard to assume that any feature you see wasn’t already climbed decades ago. But several years ago, after spotting a line on a clean swath of an east-facing wall on the Grand Teton, just right of the classic route Gold Face...
A bomber stainless-steel wedge bolt, similar to this, was implicated in an accident when the nut loosened and fell off during a fall. ardour | Wikimedia In the late afternoon of May 28, Jesse Han (25) and friends were sport climbing at Sundow...
On July 30, we were a party of six trying to crag at Cathedral Ledge after a night of pouring rain. We decided to get a late start to let the routes dry out. Since the Barber Wall is the highest crag at Cathedral and gets sun, we thought it would ...