Mt. Asgard, east face of South Tower. In July I soloed a new route on the 2,000' east face of the South Tower of Mount Asgard on Baffin Island. My route (VI 5.10 A2) consisted of mostly free climbing with an equal mixture of well-protected crack a...
Mt. Owen. 1940, E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard. Probably the first ascent via N. ridge and traverse. From Lake O’Hara via trail over McArthur Pass into valley of McArthur Creek to old campsite at 5000 ft.; 2 h. Thence up E. face (grass slopes, gul...
Huayna Ausangate, Kiru II and Payachata, Colque Cruz Group, 1985. Our expedition consisting of Bruno Anselmi, Italo Bazzani, Graziano Lampa, Livio Lanari, Dr. Giulio Zagaglia and me as leader climbed on the northern side of the Colque Cruz group. ...
Terrace Tower, Brent's Hammer. On Terrace Tower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in July, A. Mawson, D.Lavigne, and J. Lavigne established a steep route on the southeast face. Their route, Brent s Hammer (200m, 5.11+), climbs mostly hand cracks a...
Jabel Dalfa and Jabal Haddad Massifs, West Central Arabia, 1989. On January 12, 1989, I made the first ascent of a prominent granitic pinnacle which rises abruptly from the surrounding flat, sandy desert, two miles west of the main mass of the Jab...
Changtse. Our members were Dr. Hansjürgen Tauscher, co-leader, Paul Braun, Thomas Dünsser, Martin Engler, Walter Ernst, Rudolf Frick, Andreas Heckmair, Jr., Ludwig Hösle, Peter Lechart, Udo Zehetleitner, Dr. Wilfried Zink and I, co-leader. We drov...
Chinchey Group: Shahuanca, Cherup II, El Roca del Cuyé Loco. In the Chinchey Group, up behind Huaraz, the French alpinists Clément Guntz and Hugo Robin made what they think may be the first ascent of a peak they called Shahuanca on July 25, 2000. ...
Pico Daniel Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. Two Swiss, François Petit-pierre and Jean Antolin, entered the Sierra Nevada de Cocuy through the town of Cocuy in late December, 1970. They made the second ascent of Pico Daniel (17,222 feet). (First ascent by ...
Kimtah Peak, East Face, 1989. On April 25, 1989, my brother Carl and I climbed the east face of Kimtah Peak. Under early-season conditions, this appears to be the easiest way up the peak from Katsuk Glacier. Our route was near the center of the fa...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY, NO PROTECTION,INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount ShastaOn March 29, 1987, John Hart (38), Richard Bennett (41), and Jean Pitney (38) were on a roped ascent of the Hotlum–Bolam Glacier at the 3450 meter level when the lead...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR-WORN HARNESS BELAY LOOP BROKECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Leaning TowerOn October 23, Todd Skinner (48) and his partner Jim Hewitt were rappelling fixed lines from the Jesus Built My Hotrod route after an attempt at free...
Ganesh II, South Face. Rick Allen and I reached Base Camp at 4300 meters below the 2500-meter-high (8000-foot-high) south face of Ganesh II on September 28. We were not alone as a large Swiss party was already established and making an attempt on ...
Mount Rainier, Direct Russell Cliff. On July 7 to 8 the first direct ascent of Russell Cliff was accomplished by Jim Springer, Dean Bentley, and me, all seasonal NPS rangers; with the support of Gordon Ball of Seattle. The route follows the 1960 R...
Cragtree Crags, East Summit, 1991. Extending west from Mount Chamberlain and above both Crabtree Lakes is a long ridge containing a number of faces, arêtes and buttresses. Just west of the scree-filled gully that separates Mount Chamberlain from t...
Colorado, Wellington Lake, The Castle. On 1 August George Long (15) and Larry Davis ( 15), members of Scout Troop 204 of Denver, had climbed the Castle. At about 15:50 they started down the rocks on the north side by the “pinnacle”. They each took...
The Volcano Purace (15,420 feet) in Colombia was climbed last summer by W. Jenks Woolston of Chestnut Hill, Pa., who was on a collecting trip in that region. The climb was made from Purace village, about twenty or twenty-five miles from Popayan in...
Rock and Rope, by Showell Styles. London: Faber and Faber, 1967. 174 pages, 9 photographs. Price: 25s.Mr. Styles recognizes two kinds of rock climbers: the “tiger”, or ace who concentrates on technique, and the “rabbit”, who climbs for enjoyment. ...
Shivling Tragedy and Ascent of Southwest Ridge. After a three-day walk Australians Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, my sister Belgian Véronique Koch and I got to Base Camp on April 24. There was a lot of snow after the heaviest winter snowfall in ten years....
Bandaka. Hirosaki University’s expedition was led by Sumindo Ha- nada. They left Kabul on July 9 and reached Keron on the 17th via Hazarat Said. They established Base Camp on the 19th at 13,800 feet in the Sakhi valley. They then placed three camp...
McKinley, Entire South Buttress. Parts of the South Buttress of McKinley (Denali) have been climbed before, but starting from the airstrip on the Kahiltna Glacier on May 4, Mark Asprey, Ron Bauer, Marcus Brown, Tahoe Rowland, Mike Vanderbeek and T...