FALLING ROCK–DISLODGED BY PARTY ABOVEWyoming, Devil's Tower National Monument, Pseudo WeissnerOn May 29, Rita Sanders (46) of Bellview, Nebraska, was injured by a falling rock while climbing on Devils Tower. Sanders was climbing the Pseudo Weissne...
High Level: The Alps from End to End. David Brett. Victor Gollancz, North Pomfret (Vermont), 1983. 207 pages, black and white photographs, sketch maps. $23.50.In the summer of 1981, David Brett, an English writer, artist and climber, made a solo, ...
Summary of activities. In late January an experienced team of Russian mountaineers flew in to Dronning Maud Land, aiming to make a number of ascents among the spectacular spires for which this area is now famous. The group flew from Cape Town, Sou...
In January 2009 Olivier Cantet, Régine Lemaire, and Emmanuel Ratouis put up five new routes, and made two new canyon descents, in various parts of Oman.They first visited Tahab Canyon in the northeast of the country. Access is via the road to the ...
Mountaineering First Aid. Martha J. Lentz, Stephen C. Macdonald and Jan D. Carline. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 112 pages, black and white illustrations. $4.95.This first-aid booklet is a gem. It presents the immediate care of mountain enviro...
The Underhill Ridge of the Grand Teton. On 7 September 1952, Arnold Guess, Fred Zachariasen, and Leigh Ortenburger made the second ascent of the southeast ridge, better known as the Underhill ridge, of the Grand Teton.* Starting from the lower sad...
Atlas Mountains, Taghia, Oujdad peak (2,695 m), Barracuda. In the remote High Atlas Mountains, the Polish team of Eliza Kubarska, Borek Szybinski, and me free climbed a new multipitch route Barracuda (600m, 7c+max, 7a+ oblig). The climb runs throu...
Annapurna Dakshin. Six Japanese led by Yoshio Matsunaga climbed Annapurna Dakshin (South) by the southwest ridge. They established Base Camp and Camps I, II and III, at 4800, 5450, 5700 and 6400 meters on September 27, October 2, 9 and 19. On Octo...
World Mountaineering: The World’s Great Mountains by the World’s Great Mountaineers. Audrey Salkeld, general editor. Forward by Christian Bonington. Mitchell Beazley: London, U.K. 1998. Numerous color and black-and-white photographs, maps, topos. ...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, ROCK FLAKE CAME OFF, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, West RidgeOn April 13, my climbing partner Dave and I (Scott Bennett, 23) were psyched to be out in Eldo. Our destination was the West Rid...
There have been 32 presidents of the AAC, including me. Like me, many (perhaps too many) were trained in the law. A fair number were educators and medical doctors, and even one was a man of the cloth who gave sermons upon his descent from climbs i...
El enigma de los santuarios indígenas de alta montaña. Antonio Beorchia Nigris. Universidad Nacional de San Juan, San Juan, Argentina, 1987. 414 pages, 211 black & white photos, 74 maps, tables and diagrams.Risking being accused of gross exagg...
L’Homme et Le Mont Blanc, by Etienne Giudetti. Paris: Hachette, 1957.197 pages; panorama. Price 750 fr.In this account of Chamonix, its valley and Mont Blanc, the text is largely given over to the story of the mountain through the time of Saussure...
The Führerbücher of Hans and Christian KaufmannThrough the courtesy of G. Hasler, Esq. (A.C.), of Lausanne, the American Alpine Club has received photostatic copies of the Canadian entries in the Führerbücher of Johannes (Hans) Kaufmann (b. 1875) ...
It is obvious that this section could not be compiled without the help of many others than the Editorial Board. We are very grateful to all of those who have assisted us. We can not possibly mention here all who have done so much, but we do wish t...
Chashkin Sar. In September Samina Baig from Shimshal Village made what is reported to be the first ascent of Chashkin Sar (quoted as 6,400m but according to some sources more likely to be ca 6,000m; a similarly named peak close to Shimshal was cli...
Across the Patagonian IcecapEric ShiptonStretching from north to south, the Andes span 65° of latitude, more than one-sixth of the circumference of the Earth. Though the chain cannot be compared in altitude and sheer bulk with the ranges of Centra...
Supplemental Oxygen and Mountaineering DeathsO2: the extra breath of life on Everest and K2?by Xavier Eguskitza, United KingdomRaymond B. Huey, The University of WashingtonThe higher one climbs, the harder one works to climb. The increasing scarci...
Banderpunch 1 (Black Peak), Garhwal. On June 7 three members of the Indian Army Regiment of Artillery’s team and one Sherpa stood on the summit of Banderpunch I (20,956 feet), commonly called the Black Peak. (First ascent, June 7, 1955 by J. T. M....
Big Wall Climbing, by Doug Scott. New York and London: Oxford University Press, 1974. 248 pages, profuse illustrations. Price: $12.50.What a relief to see a mountaineering history book by an active climber! Doug Scott’s big wall climbing has taken...