Asia, India–Garhwal, Thalay Sagar Attempt

Publication Year: 1981.

Thalay Sagar Attempt. Unfortunately, due to other commitments, we had to climb during the monsoon and out of four weeks on the mountain we had only two days without snow. Despite that, we climbed on all but two days. We attempted the north flank, from the east col, of Thalay Sagar. The route to the col, which lies between Thalay Sagar and Brigu- panth, had previously been fixed by the American women, but we could not find the fixed ropes and spent a dangerous few days reaching the col on very unstable but easy snow. The route really begins at the col at about 20,000 feet. It provided very hard climbing on rock and ice. We reached 21,200 feet before returning to Base Camp. We have left all our equipment on the mountain for another attempt in 1981. (NCCS IV, F8 or 9, A2 or 3.) We were Peter Minks, Malcolm Howells, my wife Jacky and I.

J.V. Anthoine, Alpine Climbing Group