On May 13, Peter (31) and Alain (26), both from France, were climbing pitch six of the Regular Northwest Face (VI 5.9 C1), hauling a bag for a bivouac at Big Sandy Ledge. Peter took a 20-foot lead fall on the crack labeled “5.9 polished fingers” i...
On June 30, the U.S. Marine Corps Mountain Warfare Training Center out of Bridgeport was on Mt. Shasta conducting training exercises when Seargent Ruiz (25) attempted to jump over a crevasse at around 11,500 feet. Upon landing on the other side of...
On June 27, James Brown (30s), a Sierra Wilderness Seminars (SWS) guide, was struck by a large ice boulder in the lower leg and knocked off his feet. Ranger Nick Meyers was notified by SWS’s Dave Cressman about 8:15 a.m. Cressman stated that Brown...
On June 16, a climber (33) was glissading on the Avalanche Gulch route at approximately 11,700 feet when he lost control and injured his shoulder. Apparently he had had surgery on the shoulder in the past and was familiar with the injury. The clim...
On February 18 at 11:30 a.m., dispatch informed me (Celeste Fowler) of an overdue climber, J. Scherer (31), on Mt. Shasta. The reporting party was B. Thompson.Thompson gave the following account. On February 17, he and Scherer began to climb Mt. S...
On January 20, Ranger Nick Meyers was notified by Siskiyou County SAR of an injured solo climber, Aaron Pessah (25), on the Green Butte/Sargents Ridge route at 11,300 feet. He was apparently unable to walk or descend due to a knee and leg injury. ...
On July 7, Lilia Telenkevic (46), an experienced client on the Mt-19-7 Summits expedition, was pulled off her feet by her rope team while descending below the fixed lines, at around 15,000 feet, on the West Buttress route. During the fall she twis...
About 5 p.m. on June 23, a female client (28) on the AMS-Hamill expedition fell while negotiating the bergschrund at the base of the fixed lines at 15,400 feet on Denali’s West Buttress route. At the time of the fall, her left arm was wrapped arou...
On June 2, a client (43) on a guided trip was evacuated with a severe case of high-altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). The guides had contacted rangers about one of their clients who seemed to be exhibiting signs and symptoms of HAPE. Rangers conduct...
On May 28 a team of five Polish climbers fell while descending the upper mountain above Denali Pass. They descended on their own power to the 17,200- foot camp on the West Buttress route and contacted an NPS ranger patrol there. One climber (39) r...
At the end of March, I (Colin Haley, 28) left for a climbing trip in Alaska’s St. Elias Range with Portlanders John Frieh and Daniel Harro. We were flown into the range by Paul Claus midday on April 1. We spent a few hours setting up our base camp...
In September 2013, I traveled with British writer Jamie Bunchuk to produce a film, in association with the Murghab Ecotourism Association, about a Kyrgyz-Tajik hunter and herder named Orozbek, who lives in a small settlement just off the beautiful...
Ben Dare and Daniel Joll, who did the first ascent of the south face of Marian Peak (2,102m) in March 2013, added a second line on the left side of the 1,000m face on February 7, 2014. Mater Dei (20) shares the same start as the 2013 route thr...
On the day before Thanksgiving, a 24-year-old climber was top-roping her last climb of the day: Gorilla (5.10). Approximately 15 feet up the climb, her foot slipped out of a jam while her left hand remained jammed in the crack. As she fell, her ha...
On April 6 my partner (age 44) and I (age 29) set out to climb Laurel Mountain (11,812’) via the Mendenhall Couloir (3,000’, III, Class 4, Steep Snow). We started hiking around 8 a.m. and reached the base of the couloir by 8:45 a.m. The weather wa...
Viewed from the Milford road, Mt. Suter (2,094m) is all but indiscernible. Standing among a cluster of peaks, it appears as nothing more than a small dot on the horizon, easily lost into the array of surrounding summits. From the Falls Creek drain...
Stress and Re-engagement Following a Critical IncidentPlease consider helping me complete this research in support of my doctoral studies at Texas A&M University. I am interested in learning about stress and re-engagement of outdoor adventure ...
In August and September 2014, I visited Kyrgyzstan, a country that is mostly covered in mountains, with the Russian climber and guide Nikolay Totmyanin. Our destination was the east part of the Trans Alai chain and a little-explored, north-south v...
Mt. Buckland and Mt. Giordano Mt. Buckland was named by Phillip Parker King in February 1827 and portrayed on the extraordinary nautical charts of the British Admiralty, the main geographical reference for the area for about a century. It is ...
Bongalong (600’, 5.5 A1) was established by Jerry Brown and Rod Smythe in 1966. Knowing how obscure the lower left side of the east face of Longs Peak is, and that this route was established before the free-climbing era, I thought it might be low-...