Sharphu VI, Anidesh Chuli, and Phole Attempts
Nepal, Eastern Nepal
In the fall, Takahiro Ishikawa, Takahiro Kaneko, and Saki Terada made a spirited attempt on unclimbed Sharphu VI (6,076m) in the Ohmi Kangri Himal. The team approached up the Nupchu Khola from Kangbachen and then climbed southwest to reach the glacier below the north ridge of Tha Nagphu (5,980m, climbed by a Spanish team in 2017). Instead of climbing over this summit, they traversed its eastern flanks to reach the ridge on the far side leading southeast toward Sharphu VI. On their final attempt, they reached around 6,000m on this ridge but were stopped by an apparently impassible section. During the descent, they made a short detour to climb Tha Nagphu (second ascent).
Kazu Amano, Mashu Kawasaki, and Kotaro Miyazu attempted to climb Anidesh Chuli (6,808m), an unclimbed summit in the Kangchenjunga Himal formerly known as White Wave. The first known attempt was in 2013, by a team from New Zealand that tried the east ridge but retreated after a fall. A different New Zealand team was back the following year, but snow conditions were so bad they were not able to set foot on the mountain, abandoning their attempt at 5,600m. It is thought that in 2018 a Japanese team, with plans for the northeast face, also failed.
The 2023 team established base camp on September 30, near the base of the Ramtang Glacier at 4,750m. From there, they acclimatized to around 5,800m before attempting the fluted northeast face, which starts at around 6,000m. They retreated from 6,600m, not far short of the upper east ridge.
A pair of Japanese climbers attempted the north face of Phole, one of three summits crossed by the ridge extending west from Jannu as it descends toward the Ghunsa Khola: Sobithongie (6,652m), Phole (6,645m), and Kyabura (6,294m, a different Kyabura than the one in the report above). All were opened in 2002, and all remain officially unclimbed [rumors that Sobithongie was climbed from the north more than 20 years ago are unconfirmed].
In the autumn, Hidesuki Taneishi and Daiki Yamamoto attempted the north face of Phole from an advanced base camp beneath the wall at 5,100m. They took a left-rising line over steep ice and mixed ground, aiming toward the col separating Phole from Sobithongie. The 1,400m–1,500m face becomes steeper toward the top, and the two bivouacked three times before reaching a height of around 6,200m. By this point Yamamoto was unwell and the two descended.
— Lindsay Griffin, AAJ