Huamashraju Este, south face, Viva Perú Carajo; Quebrada Llaca, Mal de Panza; Huanka Punta, southwest face, Súper Canalizos; Huanka Punta, southeast face, Leire; Huaketsa Punta, west face, Eder Sabino Cacha (first free ascent)

Peru, Cordillera Blanca
Author: Erik Rieger. Climb Year: 2021. Publication Year: 2022.

In early July, Eneko Pou and Iker Pou made the first ascent of the south face of Huamashraju Este (5,350m), which they called Viva Perú Carajo (80° M7). The route begins in a right-angling corner system and consisted of thinly iced slabs and mixed sections. It took the climbers approximately seven hours to cover the 600m of gain from the base to the summit. At the same time, their teammates Manu Ponce (Spain) and Micher Quito (Peru) completed a possible new rock route on the north face: Po-Quito Ponce (6c). [Vitamina Huancaina (AAJ 2021) ascends the east face of the peak.] The four climbers rappelled together, completing their climbs in approximately 15 hours round trip.

In mid-July, the Pous and Ponce climbed a new route on the lower east side of Quebrada Llaca (a.k.a. Yaca), the valley southeast of Vallunaraju, which they called Mal de Panza (300m, 7a).

In early August, the three climbers opened two new routes on the limestone walls of the Cerro Tornillo basin, east of San Marcos. On the southwest face of Huanka Punta (ca 4,900m), they climbed Súper Canalizos (475m, 6c+), which begins a couple hundred meters right of the trio’s 2019 route Cabeza Clava (AAJ 2020). The route was climbed without bolts in six and a half hours. Next, they climbed Leire (300m, 6b) on Huanka Punta’s southeast face. They completed the climb in seven hours, placing three bolts.

In mid-August, the Pous and Ponce traveled to the Quebrada Quilloc, where they made the first free ascent (500m, 7a) of the Eder Sabino Cacha route (originally graded 500m, 6c A2; AAJ 2006) on the west face of Huaketsa Punta (5,134m; a.k.a. Amahugaychu).

— Erik Rieger, from information by Eneko Pou and Iker Pou, Spain



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