On June 25, 2019, James Baragwanath (Chile) and I climbed a new route up the west face of Huamashraju (5,434m; 9°31'27.98"S, 77°23'5.32"W). The route consisted of 300m of high-quality granite, which we climbed free to 6a+, having only to overcome one move of A1, stepping high onto a birdbeak, to connect one crack system with another. After overcoming the rock section of the west face, we climbed 100m of easy snow terrain to the true summit. We called the route El Chumita (300m, 6a+ A1), and it is located on a clean panel to the right of Buen Día, Día (see AAJ 2021). [Editor’s Note: The west face of Huamashraju has approximately 10 reported routes on its 200-300m rock face. See past AAJs and the route line photo.]

In August 2019, I revisited this area with Ignacio Vasquez Palominos (Chile), and we climbed a new route up the east face of Huamashraju Este (5,350m), which is a satellite peak of the better known Huamashraju. After hiking into the Rajucolta Valley, we established base camp in a scenic meadow at the base of the rocky east face, which is approximately 250 meters high. At first light we headed up vegetated crack systems and intermittent blocky ledges, eventually reaching cleaner rock in the upper reaches. Cool chimney and crack features led us to a final overhanging pitch that allowed us to pull onto the summit, which has a stunning view of the surrounding valleys, with Huantsán dominating. We made four rappels toward the northeast ridge, leaving all anchors in place, and descended a final rocky gully to the talus field above our camp. We named the route Vitamina Huancaina (6b).

— Seb Pelletti, Australia