For the quality and quantity of new routes—with heights always above 4,000m—and exploration, our expedition to the Peruvian Andes with Manu Ponce in June was one of the most important in our long career. Our Andean journey began south and east of the main Cordillera Blanca in a previously underexplored area east of San Marcos and just west of the huge Antamina copper and zinc mine.

First, we opened Burrito Chin de los Andes (700m, 6b) on Cerro Tornillo (4,900m, 9°32' 7.5444''S, 77°4'43.662''W), making the first ascent of its northwest face. Then, in the same area, to the northwest, we opened Cabeza Clava (470m, 6c+), which was the first ascent of the cold southwest face of the Huanka Punta (4,670m, 9°31'35.2056''S, 77°5'13.6536''W). Both climbs were on limestone of great quality. This is unusual for the Cordillera Blanca, where most rock climbs are on granite. This place may become an important area for rock climbing for future generations.

After these climbs, we returned to Huaraz and then traveled to Cashan West (5,686m). (Editor’s Note: It is the westernmost peak on the jagged ridge south of the Quebrada Rajucolta and north of Quebrada Rurec. See AAJ 1969 and 1994.) With four days of hard activity, we were able to climb Andean Kingdom (800m, 7a+). This was the first ascent of the unclimbed northeast face. The route took one day of approach from the Quebrada Rajucolta, two days of near-continuous climbing separated by a painful bivouac in the middle of the wall, and one day of descent. It’s one of the best routes of our career.

Upon returning to Huaraz, we learned of a fatal accident and left to assist 40 other volunteers with the recovery. In the wake of this tragedy, it was very difficult to lift the mood and continue climbing. We focused on one last wall in Quebrada Llaca, closer to Huaraz and with fewer objective dangers than those posed by the high peaks. Our fourth new route, however, wasn’t exempt from incidents. Close to finishing the first day, Iker’s lead rope dislodged a stone which struck Eneko’s leg with such violence that he nearly lost consciousness from pain. After descending, an SUV took us to the hospital, where they placed four stiches. Two days later, still with strong pains and with new stitches in place, we returned to finish the task: Aupa Gasteiz (160m, 7c+)! The route is found near the entrance to the valley, on the right side, very close to the road.

–       Eneko Pou and Iker Pou, Spain