Valley of Fire State Park: Unlike the friendly attitude of the Utah State Park rangers in Snow Canyon an hour away, the Nevada State Park rangers in Valley of Fire have for years outlawed the use of chocks, crampons, petons (their spelling) and ot...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT-FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral RockOn July 12th at 1:00 p.m., a fisherman in Yosemite Valley reported seeing two climbers fall from high on Middle Cathedral Rock. After speaking with this witness, I...
Great Cross Pillar, South Face, Non-Conceptual Time. Three days of rough travel brought my partner, Sean “Stanley” Leary, and I to the Great Cross Pillar in Sam Ford Fjord. We said goodbye to our Inuit friends and guides, then busied ourselves e...
Gatekeeper Wall, Gatekeeper Crack. In October Dave Jones, Chris Owens, and I established this route on the Gatekeeper Wall, which is the first formation lower than and east of the Watchman. We started up the canyon where the NPS has their shuttle ...
AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Glacier National Park, Mount CheopsOn February 1, a high school backcountry ski group comprised of three adults and 14 students was traveling on the Balu Pass Trail, about five kilometers west of the Rogers Pass summit. ...
Northeast Ridge of M-6Talbot BielefeldtWE began by finding that the road over Rohtang Pass to Keylang was closed by record snowfall, thus adding a week of trekking to the expedition. Then, the first day out of Manali, we ran into a police officer ...
Everest Ascent and Tragedy. Two Japanese expeditions climbed Everest in the post-monsoon season, but three died on the descent. Five Japanese led by Haruichi Kawamura and ten Sherpas originally had permission for the southwest face but had it chan...
The easy ascent of Cirque Mountain (13,650 ft.) was first made by Gordon Williams, T. M. Griffiths, and the writer. The climb was made from Dike Col up the southwest ridge.
A Portrait of Leni Riefenstahl. Audrey Salkeld. Jonathan Cape, London, 1996. 312 pages, black-and-white photographs, ca. $20.00.In the 1920s, Leni Riefenstahl climbed the Vajolet and Sella Towers and skied and worked with Hannes Schneider and Sepp...
Mt. Assiniboine, Cheesmond-Dick second ascent solo, and various ascents. In July I traveled for the third time to Canada. In spite of bad conditions on the alpine faces I picked off a couple of good routes. After installing a bivy cache at Eiffel ...
HAPE, HACE, AND AMSWyoming, Grand Teton National ParkWhile signs and symptoms of AMS are not unusual in the Tetons, it is rare to see HAPE or HACE. During the summer of 2001, four significant altitude- related cases were seen. One was a 14 year ol...
Exploring Greenland’s Lemon BjergeChristian BoningtonTHE GROOVE SOARED ABOVE ME, bristling in small overhangs. It faded into an overlapping curtain of smooth rock with no guarantee of a route beyond it. Each move was taxing. From below, it looked ...
Chaupi Huanca, Qui Io Vado Ancora (to junction with Caravaca Jubilar). Italian Ragni di Lecco climbers Simone Pedeferri (leader, age 34), Andrea Pavan (26), and I (41) explored the granite walls of Peru’s Quebrada Rurec, where on July 12 we made t...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn October 20, 1984, a climber (F - 22) fell seven to eight meters to the ground when her rappel anchor—consisting of nylon webbing secured to a tree and a rock—failed. (Source...
Dhaulagiri, West Face and Southwest Buttress Attempts. Our Czechoslovakian expedition had two objectives: to climb a new route on the extremely difficult right side of the west face in expedition style without porters or artificial oxygen and to c...
FALLING ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonAround 1900 on July 15, 2002, Teton County Sheriff’s Office (TCSO) received a 911 call from Richard Whipple reporting a climbing accident on the North Face of the Grand Teton. The TCSO tra...
Hiking, Camping and Mountaineering, by Roland C. Geist. 8 vo., 304 pages, with 18 sketches, 4 sketch maps and 20 photographs.New York: Harper and Bros., 1943. Price $3.00.Addressed to beginners in each of the activities named, this book aims “to i...
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, first ascent, and Todos Los Caballos Lindos. If Paul McSorley wasn’t such a talented climber and guide I would suggest he pursue a career in motivational speaking. He has the uncanny ability to rally a crew on any missi...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park(On August 26,1986, Doug Grimm [40] was climbing the northwest corner of Twin Owls on Lumpy Ridge when he fell. Here is his report.)The fall resulted during a ...
Peak 10,611. On August 22, 1957 Jack Davis, Redwood Fryxell, and Julie Peterson made the first ascent of this peak, east of Rolling Thunder Mountain, by its southeast ridge.