Illustrated Guidebooks. Jan Kielkowski. Potsdamer Strasse 45, 4000 Düsseldorf 13, Germany. Paperback booklets.Jan Kielkowski continues to put out guidebooks to some of the high-mountain areas of the world. The mountains in various regions are give...
FALL ON SNOW, FAILURE TO SELF-ARRESTWashington, Columbia PeakOn July 13, Lee Giroux (50) and five other members of the Seattle Mountaineers attempted to reach the summit of Columbia Peak. The party left their camp at 6:00 a.m. that morning. Each p...
Changping Valley, first ascents of Chiwen, “The Little Prince,” and Chibu. On September 11 Katy Holm, Aidan Oloman, and I left Vancouver for Rilong, a growing mountain town and access point for the Siguniang Shan National Reserve. From there we ma...
Ascents in the Cathedral SpiresMichael Graber, Buff Climbing ClubON June 26, Cliff Hudson flew Hoo- man Aprin, David Black and me from Camp Creek to the Tatina Glacier in the Kichatna Mountains. We were surprised and slightly disappointed to find ...
Roar of the WindThe first winter ascent of Makalu.Simone MoroMy latest expedition would have been special regardless of the objective. It was my 40th trip outside Europe, and, as when I turned 40 a year earlier, it marked an inevitable point of re...
Mt. Logan-Cook Expedition, 1953RICHARD E. McGOWANLured by some of the fine climbing problems in the St. Elias Range of Alaska and Yukon Territory, Canada, a group of Seattle climbers, in the winter of 1952-53, organized the Mt. Logan-Cook Expediti...
Valley of Fire State Park: Unlike the friendly attitude of the Utah State Park rangers in Snow Canyon an hour away, the Nevada State Park rangers in Valley of Fire have for years outlawed the use of chocks, crampons, petons (their spelling) and ot...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT-FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral RockOn July 12th at 1:00 p.m., a fisherman in Yosemite Valley reported seeing two climbers fall from high on Middle Cathedral Rock. After speaking with this witness, I...
Great Cross Pillar, South Face, Non-Conceptual Time. Three days of rough travel brought my partner, Sean “Stanley” Leary, and I to the Great Cross Pillar in Sam Ford Fjord. We said goodbye to our Inuit friends and guides, then busied ourselves e...
Gatekeeper Wall, Gatekeeper Crack. In October Dave Jones, Chris Owens, and I established this route on the Gatekeeper Wall, which is the first formation lower than and east of the Watchman. We started up the canyon where the NPS has their shuttle ...
AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Glacier National Park, Mount CheopsOn February 1, a high school backcountry ski group comprised of three adults and 14 students was traveling on the Balu Pass Trail, about five kilometers west of the Rogers Pass summit. ...
Northeast Ridge of M-6Talbot BielefeldtWE began by finding that the road over Rohtang Pass to Keylang was closed by record snowfall, thus adding a week of trekking to the expedition. Then, the first day out of Manali, we ran into a police officer ...
Everest Ascent and Tragedy. Two Japanese expeditions climbed Everest in the post-monsoon season, but three died on the descent. Five Japanese led by Haruichi Kawamura and ten Sherpas originally had permission for the southwest face but had it chan...
The easy ascent of Cirque Mountain (13,650 ft.) was first made by Gordon Williams, T. M. Griffiths, and the writer. The climb was made from Dike Col up the southwest ridge.
A Portrait of Leni Riefenstahl. Audrey Salkeld. Jonathan Cape, London, 1996. 312 pages, black-and-white photographs, ca. $20.00.In the 1920s, Leni Riefenstahl climbed the Vajolet and Sella Towers and skied and worked with Hannes Schneider and Sepp...
Mt. Assiniboine, Cheesmond-Dick second ascent solo, and various ascents. In July I traveled for the third time to Canada. In spite of bad conditions on the alpine faces I picked off a couple of good routes. After installing a bivy cache at Eiffel ...
HAPE, HACE, AND AMSWyoming, Grand Teton National ParkWhile signs and symptoms of AMS are not unusual in the Tetons, it is rare to see HAPE or HACE. During the summer of 2001, four significant altitude- related cases were seen. One was a 14 year ol...
Exploring Greenland’s Lemon BjergeChristian BoningtonTHE GROOVE SOARED ABOVE ME, bristling in small overhangs. It faded into an overlapping curtain of smooth rock with no guarantee of a route beyond it. Each move was taxing. From below, it looked ...
Chaupi Huanca, Qui Io Vado Ancora (to junction with Caravaca Jubilar). Italian Ragni di Lecco climbers Simone Pedeferri (leader, age 34), Andrea Pavan (26), and I (41) explored the granite walls of Peru’s Quebrada Rurec, where on July 12 we made t...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn October 20, 1984, a climber (F - 22) fell seven to eight meters to the ground when her rappel anchor—consisting of nylon webbing secured to a tree and a rock—failed. (Source...