FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, OFF ROUTE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mouth Edith CavellOn August 11, 1991, after summitting the east ridge of Mount Edith Cavell in mixed weather conditions, J.B. and J.L. had a short lunch break, and then began their descent...
Annapurna III. A Korean expedition of four was led by Song Pyo-Myung. They climbed the north face to the east ridge. On October 5, Kim Gil-Woo and Sherpas Norbu Jangbu, Sonam Tshering and Ang Kami completed the ninth ascent of Annapurna III (7555 ...
Kyoabl-Kapacau and Tblwkah valleys, various ascents. Landing at Almaty on August 2, Liam Hughes, Paul Padman, John Temple, Stuart Worsfold, and I were met by Andrey Gundarev, our happily laid-back interpreter, and whisked to a monolithic hotel. It...
Kalindi. An expedition of the Indian Himalayan Federation was led by Bibhas Das. They reached Uttarkashi on July 2 and set up Base Camp at Nandanban (14,230 feet), Advanced Base at Basukital (16,500 feet), I on the Suralaya Glacier (17,000 feet), ...
Kusum Kanguru, North Face, 1991. In mid May, 1991, I soloed a direct finish to the Curtis-Ball route on the north face of Kusum Kanguru. This was my most aesthetic climb and my most moronic. Leaving the Curtis-Ball at half height, I climbed emeral...
MIT Outing Club. In addition to the frequent practice climbs held locally, a summer trip was made to the Tetons, in Wyoming. Using Jenny Lake and the MITOC hearse as base camp, eleven of us made eight ascents of Teton peaks in August. The climbs i...
Cerro Astillado, 1993. In February, 1993, Brazilian Macoto and Argentine Jorge Tarditti made the second ascent of Astillado (2005 meters, 6578 feet). The first ascent had been made by Cesare Maestri. The mountain is 10 kilometers southwest of Esta...
On September 3, 2007, Steve Su and I began a nine-week expedition to Pakistan’s Hispar region. We had a number of objectives, including Pumari Chhish (7,350m). Most expeditions gunning for 7,000m peaks tackle snow-covered terrain during summer, fo...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNCONTROLLED GLISSADE, DESCENDING UNROPEDWashington, Olympic National Park, Mount OlympusOn June 16, 1993, Mason Flint, David Whiting and Paul Hood left the Hoh Ranger Station in Olympic National Park for a planned five day bac...
Pik Lenina, Third Winter Ascent. In February, only a few days after the second winter ascent, an independently operating light-weight Moscow team made the third winter ascent of Pik Lenina. They used snow caves in crevasses at 4800, 5800 and 6100 ...
Oriol Baro and I arrived in Nepal on September 11 without firm plans, only pictures in the pocket. We acclimatized in the Khumbu, ascending the trekking peak Parchamo (6,279m). From here we saw an interesting wall; the south face of Tengi Ragi Tau...
Shishapangma (Xixabangma), winter attempt via the southwest face. Before last year no one had attempted to climb 8,012m Shishapangma in winter, and until recently permission had never been granted. But if you wait hours for a bus in the end two co...
FALL ON ROCK, SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. VictoriaDarryl Bouchard, James Ross, and Steve Thomas were descending the ridge from Victoria North Peak toward Collier Col on 22 July 1978. They estimate that the angle of the ridg...
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Ptarmigan Peak, Chugach State ParkOn June 29, two instructors and their twelve students in a University of Alaska, Anchorage, Alaska Wilderness Studies 1...
Rangrik Rang, Kinnaur. Little was known about the objective of our Indo-British expedition. No photographs were available, no eye-witness reports. We saw the mountain for the first time when we breasted a shoulder below the village of Charang, onl...
Fitz Roy Area, Various Ascents. In mid-January, Steph Davis and I climbed Rubio y Azul on Torre de la Media Luna, and in mid-February, the Piola route on El Mocho. We also attempted Fitz Roy from the west, joining the American route at the Col De ...
Lhotse, South Face. Detailed study of previous attempts resulted in our deciding on a classical style with a 22-man team, plus a doctor, radioman, two TV men and a cook. We fixed rope and had a running chain of climbing teams working one after the...
Pirámide, Northwest Face, Artesonraju, Chinchey. In June Steve Friddle, Eric Peterson and I headed to the Laguna Parón for a month of climbing. A quick warm-up attempt on Pisco led to pulmonary edema for Peterson. We are grateful to the boss at th...
Nanga Parbat, Winter Attempt. A Polish expedition attempting Nanga Parbat (8125 m) in winter via the Diamir Face returned after being evacuated from the Base Camp. Two of the climbers, Zbigniew Trzmiel, 33, and Krzysztof Pankiewicz, 45, suffered f...
Thaime Chhish, Batura Region, Attempt. Tim Relton, Bob Knapp, Jeff Thompson and I hoped to climb a mountain first attempted in 1954 by a strong German-Austrian team who referred to the peak as the “Wildspitze;” they retreated from a point close to...