North Howser Tower, Hey Kool-Aid!; South Howser Tower, Lost in the Talus; Pigeon Feathers, Peek-A-Boo and ICU. I never thought that here in the Bugaboos I would hold my breath for a crappy forecast. Bruce Miller and I had completed four new routes...
Mount Everest. There were Japanese climbers on Mount Everest both before and after the monsoon. An expedition of the Japanese Alpine Club was on the Khumbu Glacier reconnoitering for its proposed expedition to the southwest face. A second group wa...
Makalu Attempt and Kangchungtse Ascent. Our expedition hoped to climb Makalu by the original French route. We were Jordi Agulló, Jordi Anglés. Serge Benet, Antoni Bros, Dr. Josep Canyellas, Adrià Font, Jaume Matas, Jordi Montané, Francesc Zamora, ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount WowOn June 7, 1985, James Slayton (19) and three friends drove from Ft. Lewis to Mount Rainier National Park to practice rappelling off a roadside cliff. One of the members of the party...
Cordillera Blanca. We organized a very light expedition, composed of Vincent Bourges and his wife, Michel Bertinoti, François Lespinasse, François Ucay, Veronique de Colombil, my wife and me. We left France with only 110 pounds of excess baggage a...
Electraglide Rock, Left Arête. On July 2, Bill and Kathie Morck and I made the first ascent of the left arête of Electraglide Rock (5.11-), which we called Bloody Monday. A tragic accident had occurred the day before when Jack Galati, a 20-year-ol...
Geographical DistrictsNumber of Accidents1951-67 DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of Accidents1968 DeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta 191023517British Columbia311251516Yukon Territory 314134Ontario 111000Quebec111000United StatesAtlantic ...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On 29 April Jerrold Smith (27) and John Lutz (21) were descending on fixed line West of Kahiltna Notch. Either Smith or Lutz slipped and pulled the other off. There is no evidence that they were actually clipped to the fixed ...
Upper Paloma Valley, Hasta la Pinky. In the upper Paloma Valley, on February 9,2012, Paul Mangasarian and Eli Simon put up Hasta la Pinky, cracks and chimneys accessed via two snowfields (165m of climbing, five pitches, 5.7, 5.7, 5.9, 5.10b, 5.10b...
The Italian climber Renato Casarotto was trying to climb solo the long, then still unclimbed south-southwest ridge of K2 with a slight deviation to the right in the upper part. A first attempt ended at 8200 meters about June 23. A second try reach...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The club has been active in many areas during the year. Our members were to be found climbing far afield from Cambridge in Yosemite, the Wind Rivers, the Tetons, the Needles of South Dakota, the Bernese Oberland, Mexic...
Cerro Lliboutry, first ascent, winter ascent. On July 20 Abdo Fernández and I, both Chilean, flew to Punta Arenas and from there traveled overland to Chalten. We intended to accomplish the first ascent of Cerro Lliboutry (1,980m), located 10km nor...
Hunter Creek Peaks, Chugach Mountains. On June 30, Mikki Hand, Jonathan Rose and I flew to 3800 feet on the seldom-visited east fork of the Hunter Creek Glacier. During the next three days, we climbed the four highest peaks in the area: Troublesom...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPED, OFF ROUTE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mouth Edith CavellOn August 11, 1991, after summitting the east ridge of Mount Edith Cavell in mixed weather conditions, J.B. and J.L. had a short lunch break, and then began their descent...
Annapurna III. A Korean expedition of four was led by Song Pyo-Myung. They climbed the north face to the east ridge. On October 5, Kim Gil-Woo and Sherpas Norbu Jangbu, Sonam Tshering and Ang Kami completed the ninth ascent of Annapurna III (7555 ...
Kyoabl-Kapacau and Tblwkah valleys, various ascents. Landing at Almaty on August 2, Liam Hughes, Paul Padman, John Temple, Stuart Worsfold, and I were met by Andrey Gundarev, our happily laid-back interpreter, and whisked to a monolithic hotel. It...
Kalindi. An expedition of the Indian Himalayan Federation was led by Bibhas Das. They reached Uttarkashi on July 2 and set up Base Camp at Nandanban (14,230 feet), Advanced Base at Basukital (16,500 feet), I on the Suralaya Glacier (17,000 feet), ...
Kusum Kanguru, North Face, 1991. In mid May, 1991, I soloed a direct finish to the Curtis-Ball route on the north face of Kusum Kanguru. This was my most aesthetic climb and my most moronic. Leaving the Curtis-Ball at half height, I climbed emeral...
MIT Outing Club. In addition to the frequent practice climbs held locally, a summer trip was made to the Tetons, in Wyoming. Using Jenny Lake and the MITOC hearse as base camp, eleven of us made eight ascents of Teton peaks in August. The climbs i...
Cerro Astillado, 1993. In February, 1993, Brazilian Macoto and Argentine Jorge Tarditti made the second ascent of Astillado (2005 meters, 6578 feet). The first ascent had been made by Cesare Maestri. The mountain is 10 kilometers southwest of Esta...