Lhotse, Winter Attempt. An Italian expedition attempted a winter ascent of Lhotse. The members were Pier Antonio Camozzi, leader, Agostino Da Polenza, Uberto Testa, Graziano Bianchi, Mauricio San- tinello and Dr. Felice Boselli. After delays in th...
Mt. St. Elias, Mira Face, Second Ascent, and First Ski Descent of Mountain. In late April, the Colorado team of Doug Byerly, Lome Glick, Andy Ward, and I were flown to 7,000 feet on the Columbus Icefield at the base of Mt. St. Elias. Despite much ...
Huascarán Norte, French Route, North Face. During mid July Tom Sciolino and I climbed the 1966 French Route on the north face of Huascarán Norte. The approach from Lake Llanganuco to the base of the face took 1½ days. From a bivy site in the ’shru...
West Face of Liberty Bell, Cascades. Liberty Bell Mountain is destined to become a rock climber’s mecca if the proposed North Cascade Road is constructed. This summer John Rupley and Fred Beckey made its third ascent by a third new route, the most...
Nanga Parbat, Attempt and Tragedy. From May 10 to July 5, Razvan Petcu (leader), Mihai Gioroianu, Mariuo Gane, Bodgan Pintilie and Gabriel Stana attempted the Kinshofer Route. From Camp IV, at 3:30 a.m., four climbers went for the summit. At 8000 ...
Ogre Mountain and War Drum Peak, Bella Coola Area. In August Mark Bebie and I spent two weeks in the glaciers and peaks southwest of Ape Lake, then hiked out along the uplands of the Noieck River valley to a new logging road in the valley of Nutsa...
El Potrero Chico, Overview. The First Annual Potrero Chico Clean-Up and Trail Day in E1 Potrero Chico, Mexico, took place on New Year’s Day. A small turnout of 30 climbers helped remove two truckloads of trash from the base of Space Boyz, a popula...
TABLE II1951-641965Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta 14616000British Columbia18832000Yukon Territory101000Quebec 111000United StatesAtlantic — North64...
FALL ON ROCK–PROTECTION FAILED, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 4, Cam McKenzie (26) and I, Scott Ring (25), started up our fixed lines on the Zodiac route (VI 5.7 A2) on El Capitan. We picked up our haul bags wh...
Batura I Winter Attempt. Our expedition had as members Edi Koblüller, Franz Six, Dr. Gustav Ammerer and me. In weeks of winter climbing we got two-thirds of the way up the 12,000-foot south face of Baturi I (7785 meters, 25,540 feet) and reached a...
Echo Point, a rocky island, located on the end of an arm extending into the Black Canyon, was finally gained by T. M. Griffiths, Charles Kane, Gordon Williams, and Wm. Macomber. It had been attempted many times before without success.
Colorado, Front Range, Gray’s Peak. On 12 May Thomas J. Le Mire (23), Allen Falls (21), and Jim Davis (20) were climbing in the Gray’s- Torries Peaks area near Georgetown, Colorado. Le Mire became separated from the other two. The clouds came down...
AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Selkirk MountainsA neurosurgeon from Mercer Island and a noted mountaineer from Spokane, Washington, were killed on February 4, 1986, when an avalanche buried them while they were helicopter skiing in British Columbia’s ...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. In the pre-monsoon period, I led an expedition to Kamet. We left Joshimath on May 28 in two separate groups. One, led by Captain S.B. Dalai, went to the virgin west face. Captain Dalai, Naik Dhan Singh and Naik Rajinder Singh ...
Dhaulagiri, East Face in Winter. Swiss climbers Erhard Loretan, Jean Troillet, Pierre-Alain Steiner and Pierre Morand began activity on November 21 when they left their Base Camp to begin carries to the foot of the east face. They wanted to do the...
Waseda University Mount McKinley Expedition. Don Sheldon flew the Japanese Waseda University group to the 8000-foot level on May 1 and 2. On May 6, from their 13,200-foot camp, they climbed the west buttress route as high as 14,100 feet and then c...
Shivling North Face Ascent and West Ridge Tragedy. Our joint expedition had 15 Czechoslovakian and three German climbers. From Gangotri we set out with 10 porters and 15 horses and got to Base Camp at Tapovan a day later. To acclimatize, we decide...
Mt. Pissis, Southwest Face and first winter ascent; Cerro Veladero, West Route and first winter ascent.On September 16 Guillermo Glass, Rolando Linzing, and I reached the summit of Mt. Pissis (6,882m), the second highest mountain in the Andes, for...
The Image. This northern offshoot of the Bivouac-Raynolds ridge was first climbed by Jack Davis, Redwood Fryxell, Nick Ellena, and Julie Peterson August 20, 1957 by the moderate northeast ledges. This is the higher and more southerly of the two Im...
Kangchenjunga Solo Attempt. I was accompanied to Base Camp at 5050 meters at Pang Pema, which we reached on October 10, by Jean-Yves Goutte, Mlle Monique Loscos and Jean-Louis Teyssier. I attempted the 1980 Japanese route, placing Camps I and II a...