Cerro Murallón, Gone with the Wind. On the north pillar of Cerro Murallón (2,831m), Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper made the first ascent of Gone with the Wind (1,200m to summit plateau, 27 pitches, 7c+ A2 M4), in November. See Glowacz’s feature ...
Mount Torbert from the West and P 6750, Tordrillo Mountains. As far as we know, our ascent of Torbert (3479 meters, 11,413 feet) was the first from the west and only the third ascent of the peak. Rod Wilson’s party made the first ascent in 1964 fr...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise Area, Castle CragsClarence and Lyle went hiking up toward Castle Crags on August 5, 1991. From the Plain of Six Glaciers t...
Annapurna IV. An Indonesian expedition of six was led by Miss Aryati, who completed the 23rd ascent of Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet) with Sherpas Dorje, Lhakpa, Chonga Norbu and Ang Temba on November 14. They climbed the normal northwest...
Pik Pobeda (7,439m), north face to west ridge. At the end of August, Russians Vitaly Gorelik and Gleb Sokolov made the first ascent of the north face of the formation known as the Camel on the west ridge of Pik Pobeda. The objective dangers on the...
Gangstang, Lahoul. An Indian expedition led by Nirmal Gopal Chatterjee climbed Gangstang, first ascended by Italians in 1945. After ascendthe Biling Lampa stream, which flows into the Chandra River, they set up Base Camp on August 30. Other camps ...
Kusum Kanguru Tragedies, 1991. Ulric and Cathy Jessop were married in October, 1991 and decided to spend their honeymoon climbing in the Nepalese Himalaya. Their objective was the northwest ridge of Kusum Kanguru (6367 meters, 20,889 feet). They a...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Last summer found club members relatively inactive in comparison with the activities of the summer of 1955. There was no major expedition organized by the club to South America or to the Himalayas, nor was there a clim...
Southern Patagonian Icecap Traverse. John Schutt, Mark Houston, Kathy Cosley and I made a crossing of the Southern Patagonian Icecap from the Fitz Roy region to Lago Argentina. We approached the icecap via the Río Túnel on February 28. The aptly n...
Pumari Chhish South, first ascent. On their third attempt over two years (2003 and 2007), Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish South (7,350m) over six days in June. The two men climbed the 2,700m s...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITION Washington, North Twin SisterOn June 6, 1993, a group of five Bellingham Mountaineers were ascending the South Face to the West Ridge of North Twin Sister on the second day of a Basic Course. They started up a short gul...
Pik Lenina, Second Winter Ascent. Our expedition was led by Lenonid A. Troshchinenko and consisted of 24 people. Deputy leader was Aleksandr Glushkovski and I was leader of the support team. After leaving Leningrad on January 13, we arrived at Ach...
In April David Gottlieb and Joe Puryear made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang, by the 1,700m south face. They were not aware the peak had been attempted [by Stéphane Schaffter’s expedition; see above] until they arrived at the Ministry to collect ...
Chang Tang, unsupported crossing. Janne Corax and Nadine Saulnier from Sweden are claiming the first complete north to south crossing of the Chang Tang. The journey took 46 days, and although the pair hoped to climb several peaks en route (includi...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, The PinnaclesOn 7 July 1978, John Darragh (21) was belaying his companion who was leading a route on the Pinnacles. His companion dislodged a large rock which hit Darragh and broke his back. A helicopter broug...
HACE, PARTY SEPARATED, FAILURE TO TURN BACKAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThroughout the day on June 17, several expeditions passed Hiroyaki Hoshino (36) and his companions, between 18,000 feet and 19,700 feet. Everyone who passed Hoshino an...
Jaonli. A joint Mongolian-Indian expedition was led by Radnabazarin Zorig and Mohindar Singh. There were 13 Mongolians. The team reached Jaonli in mid November via the Lod Gad and the Jaonli Glacier. Base Camp and Camps I, II and III were at 4300,...
FALL IN CREVASSEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia IcefieldAt 1840 on August 5, two climbers came off the Columbia Icefield to report that two members of their party of ten were injured and needed helicopter evacuation. All members were Russi...
Cerro Pollone, East Face, New Route. Italians Lorenzo Nadali and Luiggi Trippa climbed a 550-meter new line on October 19. The route climbs an obvious ice runnel that in certain sections is only two feet wide. They named the route Mastica e Sputa ...
Longs Peak, Lower East Face, Babies ‘R’ Us. Babies ‘R’ Us (III 5.12a) is a five-pitch route on the Lower East Face of Longs Peak that offers steep slab climbing on mostly high quality granite. It starts 250 feet right of the North Chimney, immedia...