Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam, West Face Attempt

Ama Dablam, West Face Attempt. Our expedition, consisting of Merv English, Geoff Cribites, Ken Hyslop and me as leader, was attempting a direct line on the west (Mingbo) face of Ama Dablam. We climbed up the right side of the great central gully b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Matri, Garhwal

Matri, Garhwal. On June 20 three Indian girls climbed Matri (22,047 feet), which lies some four miles north of the Gaumukh, the source of the Bhagirathi River, above the Gangotri glacial system. They were members of a group of twelve climbers, bot...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna II Attempt

Annapurna II Attempt. A Japanese group led by Kazuhiko Yamada reached 24,125 feet on the unclimbed south face of Annapurna II on October 5 but had to give up because of bad weather. They had established two high camps.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan ...


Club Activities AAJ
Mountaineering Club of Alaska

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The club’s tenth year was marked by the construction of two more cabins located seven miles apart on Whiteout and Eagle glaciers in the western Chugach Mountains. These A-frames complete the quartet of shelters linki...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Traverse of Greenland

Traverse of Greenland. On September 11 Jaroslav Pavlícek, Miroslav Jakes and I flew from Reykjavik, Iceland to Kulusuk, Greenland to try to traverse the Greenland Icecap. At a time close to the 100th anniversary of Nansen’s first successful traver...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Greyskull Valley

Greyskull Valley. The Greyskull Valley Expedition included Laura Schmonsees,Trevor Deighton, Andy Rich, and myself.The expedition spent 23 days in June in the Coast Range on the border of British Columbia and Alaska. On June 8 we flew in from Skag...


Accident Reports ANAM
Unable to Find Descent Route, Darkness, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton

UNABLE TO FIND DESCENT ROUTE, DARKNESSWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn July 19 at 2105, I received a cell phone call via Teton Dispatch from John Rasmussen. Rasmussen stated that he and his wife were near the summit of the Grand T...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Chopper

Chopper. The Chopper is a single-pitch climb first climbed by Rick Sylvester and me in September. It is located in the second crack system left of the Edge of Night, so named for the prominent blade-like block found a third of the way up. It was f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Purcell Mountains, Bugaboos, North Howser Towewr, Hey Kool-Aid!; South Howser Tower's Lost in the Talus; Pigeon Feathers, Peek-A-Boo and ICU

Pigeon Spire, first winter ascent. On March 12, 2006, Marc Piché and I made the first winter ascent of Pigeon Spire, via its North Face. During summer Pigeon sees constant traffic up its classic West Ridge, a 5.4 ridge scramble, but in winter this...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Patrasi Himal

Patrasi Himal. A Japanese expedition from Kobe University to Patrasi Himal (21,742 feet) failed in the post-monsoon period. Details are lacking.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Makalu Attempt

Makalu. Attempt. We arrived at Base Camp on August 29. The team members were Australian Greg Child, Irishman Terry Mooney, Indians Sharu Phrabu and Praful Mistry and Britons Rick Allen, Andy Parkin, Mark Miller, Sean Smith, Simon Yates, Alan Hinke...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Faulty Use of Crampons, Miscommunication, Inexperience, Washington, Mount Shuksan

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, MISCOMMUNICATION, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount ShuksanJames Blilie (24), a strong but inexperienced climber, summited on Mt. Shuksan early on the morning of May 19, 1985, with several co...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca

Cordillera Blanca. A group of 17 people organized by Mountain Travel and led by John Filsinger and me made moderate ascents during a three-week circular trek north of Huascarán. Two climbs are worthy of note. One was a new route on Rajucaca (“Punt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Longs Peak, 1988

Longs Peak, 1988. In early April, 1988, I soloed a new route on the Diamond without fixed rope or bolts. Smash the State (V, 5.8, A5-) starts in a chimney/ groove to the right of Its Welx, crosses left almost to King of Swords and then goes straig...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195114211031952293217131953242714121954324231819553439266195646715113195745532818195832382211195942–256–228–019–2196047–463–1235–819–41961...


Accident Reports ANAM
Alaska, Mt. McKinley

Alaska, Mt. McKinley. A Japanese party of nine climbers, Yukio Mir- mura (30), Mamoru Oyoshi (28), Ryomei Asao (28), Masahiko Fukuhan (27), Hideaki Yoshinari (25), Kazuo Yoneda (25), Yasuo Okino (24), Muneshige Noda (24), and Shinichi Hara (24), w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh (Punjab), Deo Tibba

Deo Tibba. Masayoshi Matsudate and the Sherpa Phu Dorje climbed Deo Tibba (19,687 feet) on May 28. Other members of the Nambu Mountaineering Club expedition were Yoetsu Matsuda, Nobuhisa Murayama and Mistuyoshi Mori.KAMAL K. GUHA, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Atardecer, Al Centro y Adentro Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó

In February 2012, North American J.B. Haab and I opened Al Centro y Adentro (12 pitches, 5.11c) on Atardecer, a previously unclimbed wall in the Anfiteatro of Cochamó. The route follows 450m of nearly vertical splitter cracks and fun face up the c...

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| Published 2012 | Author Daniel Seeliger


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2, South-Southwest Ridge Attempt and Tragedy

K2, South-Southwest Ridge Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition reached Base Camp on May 31 and took its place in line on the moraine of the Godwin Austen Glacier. We found ourselves among nine expeditions on the south side and four expeditions on t...


Club Activities AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club. Continued growth, accompanied by an increase in all activities, characterized The Colorado Mountain Club during the past year. Membership currently stands at 4800, 10% more that at the start of the year.Ten outings, a week ...