Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, South Face

Cerro Torre, South Face. Italians Ermanno Salvaterra, Piergiorgio Vidi, and Roberto Mani developed a new route, Infmito Sud (VII 7 A4), over 23 days in November, using a specially designed three-level aluminum-kevlar box to withstand the brutal co...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Marcus Baker, Chugach Mountains

Marcus Baker, Chugach Mountains. On June 6 Wendell Oderkirk, Bob Smith and Patrick Freeney were airlifted to 8500 feet on the Knik Glacier. They spent the rest of the day moving 1½ miles closer to the peak, but camping at more or less the same alt...


Book Reviews AAJ
High & Wild: Essays and Photographs on Wilderness Adventure

Just before his death Galen Rowell edited a new edition of High & Wild: Essays and Photographs on Wilderness Adventure (Spotted Dog Press, $34.95). In his review of the first edition in the 1980 AAJ Charles Houston said, “It is by far his fine...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Taulliraju Attempt

Taulliraju Attempt. Clark Gerhardt, Kristian (Del) Langbauer, Todd Thompson and I, accompanied by Juan Henostroza and Aquilino Moreno, established Base Camp on June 26 below Taulliraju’s impressive west face. Unaware of the Italian attempt in 1976...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Contiguous United States, Montana, Glacier National Park, Various Activity

Glacier National Park, Various Activity. The 1998-’99 ice climbing season was largely a feast of leftovers in Glacier National Park. Routes that had been on the table for years but were not as choice as the rest finally got devoured. Many of these...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineering Club of Alaska

The Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The following activities are the more notable ones in which our members participated during 1966: In Alaska’s Chugach Range first ascents were made of Mount Rumble (7350 feet) by Vin Hoeman and David Meyers, Eagl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Bhutan Himalaya, Lhozhag Region, Kula Kangri, West Ridge Attempt

Kula Kangri, west ridge attempt. A French commercial expedition jointly led by lean Annequin and Ludovic Challeat attempted the west ridge of Kula Kangri from its base. Previous parties (there have been three ascents: Japanese in 1986, Austrians i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Rockies, Mount Robson, Emperor Ridge Variation

Mount Robson, Emperor Ridge Variation. On Mount Robson on September 17 Bryan Becker and I made an interesting and probably new variation to the regular north-face route. Instead of taking the normal start up the Berg Glacier, we climbed a narrow 4...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, First Ascents in the Southern Monashees

First Ascents in the Southern Monashees. The main difficulties in the Monashee Mountains are usually found below 5000 feet in the deep bushy river valleys. To overcome this problem, Barbara Lilley, Jess Logan, my wife Marcia and I hired a helicopt...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error—Ropes Uneven, Rappel Off End of Rope, No Helmet, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon

RAPPEL ERROR–ROPES UNEVEN, RAPPEL OFF END OF ROPE, NO HELMETColorado, Eldorado State ParkJust Another Girl’s Climb (5.12) on Lower Peanuts Wall begins on a ledge about fifty feet off the ground requiring a scramble for access. On September 6, a fo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Himalaya, Xixabangma, New Variant to Normal North Side Route

Xixabangma, new variant to normal north side route. On October 3 Inaki Ochoa de Olza reached the main summit of Xixabangma (8,012m) having made what is believed to be a new variant on the north face. The Spanish climber followed the normal route t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Theri Sar

Theri Sar. Professor Ardito Desio led a geological expedition to the Hunza valley and Skardu area. Dr. Ercole Martina made the first ascent of Theri Sar (16,568 feet) by the north wall. The mountain was reached from Misgar village and Barah valley...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan and Cascade Peak

Motint Logan and Cascade Peak. George Denton and Peter Lev reached the summit of Mount Logan on June 20 as members of a team conducting high altitude studies of snow statigraphy in behalf of the Cold Regions Research and Engineering Laboratory. Th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Colorado Mountain Club

At the Colorado Mountain Club annual camp, which was this year placed on the western side of the Wind River mountains in Wyoming, a number of new ascents were made. Peak No. 6 (Cf. A.A.J., Vol. I, No. 2, map op. p. 130) was climbed on August 5th b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Gorra Blanca, Ascent

Cerro Gorra Blanca, Ascent. Well-known Argentine climbers Jose Luis Fonrouge and Alfredo Rosasco ascended Cerro Gorra Blanca (2907m). The ascent was an ice climb that ended with a summit mushroom. Other details are lacking.Marcelo Scanu, Buenos Ai...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir West IV, Southwest Face

Tirich Mir West IV, Southwest Face. An Italian expedition led by Tullio Vidoni was composed of Danilo Saettone, Gian Luigi Sterna, Gian Piero Soster, Emilio De Tomasi, Alberto Ezio, Gianni Calcagno and me. We left Chitral by jeep on July 5 and dro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Coast Range, Papoose Rock

Papoose Rock. The west face of Papoose Rock rises sheerly above the new coast highway about five miles south of Squamish ; its general appearance gives rise to its name relationship to the larger Squamish Chief (Goose Rock) several miles north. Lo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Thamserku, North Face

Thamserku, North Face. In 1979 Japanese failed to climb the north face of Thamserku (6608 meters, 21,680 feet) when one member fell ill. In 1980 the leader Koji Okano and Katsuyuki Masunaga returned accompanied by Kimio Takehara and Dr. Keiichi Ha...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Monte Trinidad, Northeast Face

Monte Trinidad, Northeast Face. Pablo Pontoriero and Diego Cannestraci put up a new route on the northeast face of Monte Trinidad (ca. 1700m) on February 10-11. The route, Vamos con Peto (6b+, 450m), follows a crack system in the center of the fac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Mount Stuart, Northeast Face

Mount Stuart, Northeast Face. On October 18, Charlie Hampson and I climbed a new line to the left of Girth Pillar. From our bivouac atop the Ice Cliff Couloir, we descended to where we could start traversing toward the Girth Pillar access ramp, wh...