Meiji University Mount McKinley Expedition. The first of five expeditions to Mount McKinley was landed by Don Sheldon at about 8000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier from the 9th to the 12th of April. This was from Meiji University, Tokyo, Japan, and w...

Shivling Attempt. During the summer of 1987, a Norwegian team composed of Jan Westerby, Thornbjørn Envold, Magnar Osnes and Aril Meyer hoped to climb the north buttress of Shivling. Unstable weather hindered progress. Some 500 meters below the sum...

Cerro Mirador del Pissis, Northwest Ridge. On November 22 I soloed a new route on Cerro Mirador del Pissis (5,415m). I left base camp at 9:15 a.m. and after walking the normal access route to Pissis I gained the northwest ridge of Cerro Mirador de...

Peak 11,962. On July 13, 1957 Yvon Chouinard and Bud Ewers finally made the first ascent of this peak, a northern sub-summit of Mount Moran. All four previous parties that had climbed the north ridge of Moran had by-passed it. It is the moderately...

Kangchenjunga from the North. Our expedition consisted of Lou Whittaker, leader, George Dunn, Phil Ershler, Jim Hamilton, Robert Link, Larry Nielsen, Dr. Howard Putter, John Roskelley, Eric Simonson, Craig Van Hoy, Ed Viesturs, Jim Wickwire, Skip ...

The Elephant’s Perch, Northwest Face, Sawtooth Range. On September 6 Bill March and I climbed the northwest face of the Elephant’s Perch. There is a prominent, left-facing curving corner starting about halfway up the face. The climb follows this f...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn June 1,1986, Joseph Aulbach (26) and Peter Ostebo (25) were doing some climbing on Balanced Rock. According to Aulbach, he was standing below Ostebo, at the base of Balanced Rock,...

Mera. A group of fourteen French youths between the ages of 13 and 17 made the ascent of the trekking peak Mera (6414 meters, 21,043 feet). On the descent they skied from 6300 to 5300 meters at the tongue of the glacier. They were from the College...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Pennsylvania, Delaware Water GapOn November 10, 1988, Mike “X” (35) and Randy “Y” were attempting a climb of Sex Kitten (5.8). Mike was leading, Randy belaying. Mike clipped to a rhododendron a short way up for ...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FATIGUE Washington, Icicle Creek CanyonThis accident occurred on April 15 while I was participating in an Intermediate Rock 1 climbing course field trip with the Mountaineers. The subject of the class was the p...

Washington, Mount Olympus—On August 21, 1954, Ian MacKay, Anthony L. Levy (30), Robert Hegstrom (24) and Richard K. Neal, Jr. (24) left camp at 6:00 a.m. for an ascent of Mt. Olympus by way of the Hoh- blue pass. They reached the summit of the mid...

Longs Peak, East Face, New Variation. In early December John Sherman and I did a possible new variation on the East Face of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. We first ascended the mixed route Alexander’s Chimney then traversed Broadway t...

Peak 29 Attempt. The 12-man Japanese Hyogo Mountaineering Association Expedition, led by Hiroshi Maeda, tried to climb Peak 29 (25,705 feet) by its east ridge. They set up Base Camp at 14,150 feet on March 30 and Camps I (16,850 feet), II (18,850 ...

Marmolata, Bugaboos. Two new routes were established last summer. On July 31, we had two ropes of three, four of the participants being from the Swiss Alpine Club contingent who came all the way from Geneva to attend the A.A.C. camp. The Swiss wer...

NUT FAILURE—California, Yosemite, Washington Column. Thomas Beck (28) and Ken Baldrey (23) were attempting to climb the South Face of Washington Column (V 5.8, A3) using only nuts. On the third pitch, Beck was leading and pulled out a small stoppe...

LOSS OF CONTROL OF GLISSADE, OFF ROUTE, POOR POSITION British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount NaraoS.C. and K.D. set out fairly early on June 21,1994, to climb the north ice gully on the east face of Mt. Narao (2974 meters), and reached the summi...

Everest Solo Attempt. We established Base Camp and Advance Base on April 1 and 7.1 had support from Margaret-Anne Seddon and Pasang Norbu and Kassang Tsering as far as Advance Base at 5500 meters on the Central Rongbuk Glacier. I ascended the glac...

Gaugiri, second ascent of southwest ridge. On August 27 Austrians Johannes Mihatsch, Anna and Edmund Wirbel, together with Guna Bahadur Tamang and Pisail Tamang made the fourth overall ascent of Gaugiri (6,110m) but the second ascent of the origin...

K2 Attempt, Rescue, Recovery of Bodies of Long-Lost Climbers and Micro-Hydroelectric Project. Our members were my wife Julie-Ann Clyma, Alan Hinkes, Victor Saunders and I as leader. We arrived at Base Camp on June 30 and made rapid progress on the...

Shivling, northeast face direct, attempt. An eight-member expedition from the Corean Alpine Club made an attempt on the unclimbed direct route up the northeast face of Shivling (6,543m). The climbing proved to be steep, with avalanche danger, but ...