Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

TABLE I Reported Mountaineering AccidentsNumber of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.1951142110319522932171319532427141219543141318195534392913195646715118195745532818195832382211195...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Rappel Technique, Arizona, Windy Point

FALL ON ROCK–RAPPEL TECHNIQUEArizona, Windy PointOn August 31, Joaquin Fox (38) was climbing with several other people in the North Fin area west of Windy Point. He had reached the top of his climb when he fell 80 feet, still connected to his rope...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Diran Attempt

Diran Attempt. On June 16 Kunio Asai, Dr. Isao Ogasawara, Miss Kazuko Ono, Eiichi Kurihara, Kikuo Okayasu, Kunihisa Otsubo and I reached Base Camp on June 16 from Minapin in two days. We attempted the unclimbed north ridge. We placed camps at 12,3...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Southwestern Colorado Climbing Notes, 1932, Curricanti Needle

Southwestern Colorado Climbing Notes—1932The San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado were, during the 1932 season, the scene of considerable climbing activity. First, a party, members of a small, informal club called the “San Juan Mountaineers...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Castle Rock

Colorado, Castle Rock. On 26 March Christofer Ray (21) and Larry Minze (26) set out to climb Jackson’s Wall, a 5.5 route on the good granite of Castle Rock. Ray had climbed the same route a few days before as part of his climbing school course. It...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Placed Inadequate Protection, Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Baker

FALL ON SNOW, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, AVALANCHE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount BakerOn August 28, 1986, a group was climbing the northeast ridge of Mount Baker (3190 meters) near Lake Louise, on the sixth day of a climbing school. There wer...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Himalayan Traverse

Himalayan Traverse. On June 15, 1982 Hugh Swift and I completed a nine-month, 2000-mile walk across the Himalayan regions of Bhutan, Nepal and India, the first Americans to complete such a trek. The traverse began on September 20, 1981 at Tashi Ya...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri, North Face, Pear Route Attempt

Dhaulagiri, North Face (“Pear” Route) Attempt. Our expedition consisted of climbers Mark Hesse, Del Pletcher, Todd Bibler, Catherine Freer and me and support personnel Julie Hesse and Johnna Pletcher. We left Pokhara on March 9 via the Myangdi Kho...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Meiji University Mount McKinley Expedition

Meiji University Mount McKinley Expedition. The first of five expeditions to Mount McKinley was landed by Don Sheldon at about 8000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier from the 9th to the 12th of April. This was from Meiji University, Tokyo, Japan, and w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Shivling Attempt

Shivling Attempt. During the summer of 1987, a Norwegian team composed of Jan Westerby, Thornbjørn Envold, Magnar Osnes and Aril Meyer hoped to climb the north buttress of Shivling. Unstable weather hindered progress. Some 500 meters below the sum...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Cerro Miradir del Pissis, Northwest Ridge

Cerro Mirador del Pissis, Northwest Ridge. On November 22 I soloed a new route on Cerro Mirador del Pissis (5,415m). I left base camp at 9:15 a.m. and after walking the normal access route to Pissis I gained the northwest ridge of Cerro Mirador de...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Peak 11,962

Peak 11,962. On July 13, 1957 Yvon Chouinard and Bud Ewers finally made the first ascent of this peak, a northern sub-summit of Mount Moran. All four previous parties that had climbed the north ridge of Moran had by-passed it. It is the moderately...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangchenjunga from the North

Kangchenjunga from the North. Our expedition consisted of Lou Whittaker, leader, George Dunn, Phil Ershler, Jim Hamilton, Robert Link, Larry Nielsen, Dr. Howard Putter, John Roskelley, Eric Simonson, Craig Van Hoy, Ed Viesturs, Jim Wickwire, Skip ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Idaho, The Elephant's Perch, Northwest Face, Sawtooth Range

The Elephant’s Perch, Northwest Face, Sawtooth Range. On September 6 Bill March and I climbed the northwest face of the Elephant’s Perch. There is a prominent, left-facing curving corner starting about halfway up the face. The climb follows this f...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Wisconsin, Devil's Lake State Park

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn June 1,1986, Joseph Aulbach (26) and Peter Ostebo (25) were doing some climbing on Balanced Rock. According to Aulbach, he was standing below Ostebo, at the base of Balanced Rock,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mera

Mera. A group of fourteen French youths between the ages of 13 and 17 made the ascent of the trekking peak Mera (6414 meters, 21,043 feet). On the descent they skied from 6300 to 5300 meters at the tongue of the glacier. They were from the College...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Pennslyvania, Delaware Water Gap

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Pennsylvania, Delaware Water GapOn November 10, 1988, Mike “X” (35) and Randy “Y” were attempting a climb of Sex Kitten (5.8). Mike was leading, Randy belaying. Mike clipped to a rhododendron a short way up for ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Equipment, Fatigue, Washington, Icicle Creek Canyon

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FATIGUE Washington, Icicle Creek CanyonThis accident occurred on April 15 while I was participating in an Intermediate Rock 1 climbing course field trip with the Mountaineers. The subject of the class was the p...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mount Olympus

Washington, Mount Olympus—On August 21, 1954, Ian MacKay, Anthony L. Levy (30), Robert Hegstrom (24) and Richard K. Neal, Jr. (24) left camp at 6:00 a.m. for an ascent of Mt. Olympus by way of the Hoh- blue pass. They reached the summit of the mid...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Longs Peak, East Face, New Variation

Longs Peak, East Face, New Variation. In early December John Sherman and I did a possible new variation on the East Face of Longs Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. We first ascended the mixed route Alexander’s Chimney then traversed Broadway t...