Moods of the Mountains and ClimbersM. M. StrumiaHAVE you ever asked yourself: What is in back of a climbing narrative that we read? “On such and such a day we left so and so, with so many horses and so many humans.” Or: “On such and such a day, wi...
CHARLES F. HOGEBOOM1876-1944Charles F. Hogeboom was born in New York City on April 15, 1876, and died there on November 19, 1944. He was educated in public and private schools and trained as an architect in Chicago. He passed most of his business ...
Mount Anderson, First Ascent. Mount Anderson (10,972 feet), in the St. Elias Mountains, lies at the junction of the Tittmann and Anderson glaciers only two miles from the Canadian border. It is named for one of the members of the American boundary...
Glacier StudiesTravelers visiting mountains where glaciers occur have an opportunity of making valuable observations of these glaciers. One of the principal problems to determine is whether the glacier is experiencing a period of expansion or cont...
Tioman Island, Dragon's Horns, first ascent. In late August 2000 Nick Tomlin and I spent eight days on Pulau Tioman, an island off the eastern coast of Malaysia, making the first ascent of the impressive Bukit Nekek Semekut, one of two peaks on th...
Washington, Mt. Rainier—Success Glacier—George Sainsbury (32), Ray Barker and Arnold Bloomer, all experienced climbers, two of them members of the Mountaineers, planned to climb Mt. Rainier by the then unclimbed ridge between the Success and Kautz...
The Canadian DirectWalking a fine line on the south face of Mt. McKinley.Maxime Turgeon“Hey, are you the guys who were on the south side of Foraker? Joe Reichert wants to talk with you on the radio.”As soon as I heard his voice, I knew that Joe, a...
Shoshala (ca 4,700m), Trishul Direct. In spring 2010 Frederic Nicole, Bernd Zangerl, and I were exploring the Kinnaur region for new bouldering sites, when we discovered the Baspa Valley, a veritable Shangri-La for the rock climber. Returning to S...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington (2)—On March 29, Nile Albright (19) and George Millikan (19) were descending the summit cone of Mt. Washington.The weather was sunny, windy and fairly warm. Climbing conditions were good. The accident occurred shortly...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. Todd McDougall and I attempted the northeast buttress of Thalay Sagar alpine-style. After arriving at Kedar Tal Base Camp on October 1, we made a carry on the 5th to 17,300 feet below the north face over a difficult moraine. ...
FALL ON ROCK, WRONG ROUTE, INAPPROPRIATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Banff National Park, Castle MountainOn July 27 a party of two began climbing what they thought was the popular Brewers Buttress route, II, 5.6. Unfortunately, they were one buttress too fa...
Aguja Saint Exupery. On December 27, 1996, a two-man Russian team climbed a new variation on the right side of the east face to join the upper pitches of the Buscaini route (600 meters, 6 A2 60°).
Longs Peak, The Diamond, Left For Dead. During the first week of August, Shane Wayker and I finished a new route on the far right side of the Diamond, approximately 50 feet to the right of Sunshine. Peter Takeda and I fixed the first four pitches ...
Mount Everest Attempt. This two-man New Zealand group, Russell Brice and W.C. Freaney, failed to climb Mount Everest from the Western Cwm. They established four high camps. High winds finally drove them back at 25,000 feet on October 5.Michael J. ...
Mt. Hawkins, First Ascent. In this modern world that we live in, true wilderness that has never seen the human foot is more and more uncommon. My family is privileged to live in the heart of one of the greatest wildernesses left in North America, ...
Huascarán Norte, Northeast Face. Leo Brigger and I climbed in the Cordillera Blanca from May 9 to June 10. For acclimatization we climbed Ishinca, the east face of Ranrapalca and Pisco. From May 29 to 31 we ascended the northeast face of Huascarán...
Jupiter Rock, Tumwater Canyon. Late in April Fred Beckey, Ed Cooper, and David Collins did the first ascent of this prominent pyramid-shaped granite face, naming it for the planet which shone brightly on our bivouac. We approached the bottom of th...
Nanga Parbat, Winter Attempt. The aim of the expedition was to make a small, lightweight ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125 m) in December, 1996. We (Rafael Jensen and Victor Saunders, with Gulam Hassan, liaison officer) chose the Kinshofer route becaus...
Mount Pattullo. It is remarkable that Mount Pattullo, the highest peak in the considerable span between the Seven Sisters Range and the Stikine River, had never been climbed. Although the mountain is near Stewart and the summit is only about eight...
Nalumasortoq, Central Tower, Vertical Dream. It was reported that Christian Dalphin, A. Castella, R. Lehner, A. Truffer and N. Zambetti climbed a mostly new line on the Central Tower of Nalumasortoq in June. Vertical Dream begins by sharing six pi...