Everest: A Mountaineering History. Walt Unsworth. Houghton Mifflin Company, Boston, 1981. 578 pages, black-and-white and color photographs, maps, appendices, summary of expeditions, glossary, bibliography. $30.00.For the past several decades, we h...
Condoriri Group, Huallomen, southwest face, Bon Anniversaire Annick. In 2001 I spent a few days climbing in the well-known Condoriri group near La Paz. The snow/ice conditions were very good considering we were there at the end of July. With a fri...
The National Park Service has been keenly aware of the problem of safety, especially after the number of accidents in the Tetons in recent summers, and has organized a mountain rescue program in the Tetons, at Rainier and in Yosemite. There is sti...
In mid-September, near the end of calendar winter, a group of 17 students and Jose Luis Troncoso, Pedro Binfa, and I, instructors from Patagonia Alpine Guides, mounted an expedition to several Chilean valleys, glaciers, and peaks that had had fe...
FALLS ON ROCK AND SNOW, STRANDED, FALLING ROCKS, ETC. Colorado, Various LocationsOf the 11 accidents reported from Colorado this year, only one was an actual technical climbing situation. That one was a simple “fall on rock” on Red Garden Wall. Th...
Around 2:30 p.m. on May 27th, Donald Gallo (39), Somsanouck Gallo (40), along with a friend, M. E., set out to climb The North Ridge, a 5.5 trad route on Table Rock. The three had arrived the night before and this was the first route of the holida...
Ritipata, Palomani Grande, Palomani Tranca Central, and other ascents. John Biggar again visited the remote Peruvian Apolobamba, and as in 2002, the climbers traveled via Puno to the 4,700m mining village of Ananea. Base camp was again established...
South Teton, East Snow Couloir. On August 1, Jim Olson and Tom Watson made the first ascent of this couloir which has been in direct view of two generations of climbers. From the highway somewhat south of east, the prominent snow couloir can be se...
REVIEW OF ACCIDENTS IN 1951Washington State: (1)Cascades. On 2 June 1951 Charles Randall, a 23-year-old University of Washington student, was hit by a falling rock while climbing Red Mountain near Snoqualmie Pass Summit. The accident occurred abou...
Gushu Pishu. A.K. Janardan, Roshan Lal, Bihari Lai and Bhangu of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police made the first ascent of virgin Gushu Pishu (18,610 feet), which was difficult despite its modest height. They ascended the Zangsu Glacier.KAMAL K. GUH...
The Ascent of Mount LucaniaBradford WashburnEVER since the conquest of Mt. Logan in 1925, the ascent of Mt. Lucania has loomed as one of the most difficult and involved mountaineering problems in North America. Rising to an altitude of 17,150 ft. ...
Batu Lawi, South Face. On March 5, Volker Shoeffl, Scott Morley, photographer Chris Noble,videographers Jim Surrette and Ken Sauls and I began the first leg of our ascent of Batu Lawi (6,703'), a remote spire in the Kelabit Highlands of Borneo. Af...
Cerro Escudo, Taste the Paine. In December 2007 and January 2008, with a minimum of rope fixing and no fixed camps, Dave Turner spent 34 continuous days on the east face of Cerro Escudo, soloing a new route (VII 5.9 A4+). Above the 1,200m wall, Tu...
Tirich Mir Attempts. This season’s unusually poor weather and associated dangerous conditions in northwest Pakistan also affected Tirich Mir (7708 meters, 25,290 feet), where our expedition of Steve Callen, leader, Mike Aughey, Dave Harries, Steve...
The First Ascent of DungeonEdward L. WoolfTHE ascent of Dungeon Peak marks the close of the pioneer work in the Tonquin. All the peaks have been climbed and explorers, it seems, have visited every nook in the valley. Dungeon was the last unclaimed...
Sherpa Himalaya Nepal, by Mario Fantin. Bologna: Tamari Editori, 1971. 145 pages, 118 color photographs, 9 maps and sketches. Price L6000.Although obviously a picture book, this work also fulfills other purposes. It contains a general description ...
The Polish Khunyang Chhish East Expedition comprised Janusz Golab, Stanislaw Piecuch, and myself, Grzegorz Skorek. On July 31 we started our first acclimatization climb on the 6,500m Ice Cake Peak (on the south ridge of Khunyang Chhish). We spe...
Blazing Alaska’s Trails, by Alfred H. Brooks, with foreward by John C. Reed. XXI, 528 pages, 113 photographs, 3 diagrams, folding table, and 4 sketch maps. University of Alaska and The Arctic Institute of North America, 1953. Price, $4.50.An impor...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTOregon, Mount Hood, SouthsideWhile descending the Mazama Chute variation of the Southside route at 7:00 a.m. on July 7, Bryan Call (25) lost his footing and fell about 200 feet because he was unable to self-arres...
The Expedition Cookbook. Carolyn Gunn. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1988.192 pages, tables, appendices. $11.95 (paper).Food is one of the most important issues during an expedition, as it is in life. Snowy days in Base Camp are measured by the time f...