Colorado Front Range Crags. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1993. 279pages, black-and-white photographs, topos, maps, $18.00.Colorado Front Range Crags is the latest guidebook to focus on the lesser known climbing spots that dot the Denver-Boulde...

Climbing in Arches National Park and Zion National Park, Southern Utah. Climbing activity is picking up in southern Utah where climbers are taking advantage of warm weather and abundant rock. The following is just a sampling. Arches National Park:...

The North Palisade—First Ascent of Second Highest PeakTo the lover of mountain scenery or the scaler of mountain peaks, the North Palisade is one of the most intriguing eminences of the Sierra Nevada. Rising in almost sheer walls to the north and ...

Mount St. Elias, Attempt from North. Between June 16 and July 5 a party of seven attempted Mount St. Elias (18,008 feet) from the north. Members of the expedition were Boyd Everett, leader, Ted Church, Rein Grabbi, Robert Jones, Ants Leemets, Robe...

Washington, Mt. Rainier (1)—On February 28, at about 8:00 a.m., Ed Cooper (24) and Tony Hovey (34) left their car at Narada Falls and proceeded to the Castle Basin to attempt the North Ridge of Pinnacle Peak. On the way in, they met a party of mou...

LIGHTNING, BAD WEATHER Oregon, Mt. JeffersonOn September 1, a party of seven moderately experienced climbers departed Pamelia Lake (3,884 feet) at 6 a.m. in clear weather to climb Mt. Jefferson (10,497 feet) via the Southwest Ridge. About 8 a.m., ...

Everest International Peace ClimbJim WhittakerWhatever you can do or dream you can do, begin it. Boldness has genius, power and magic in it.—GoetheOUR GOAL was to place three climbers, one from each country, on the top of the world. They would dem...

Ribbon Falls area, new routes. Nearly a decade after the passing of my father, I was searching for the ideal place to put a route up in his honor, and so my journey to Ribbon Falls began. On Father’s Day 2000 I hiked to the top, camped, and starte...

In the San Miguel range in Colorado, Messrs. Dwight Lavender, Forrest Greenfield and Chester Prince accomplished the ascent of a 14,000-ft. peak on the ridge west of Mt. Wilson and christened it by the name of El Diente (Trail and Timberline, No. ...

Mount Hunter, South Face and RidgeDean RauAvoice shattered the feelings of unreality that had plagued me during my sixth night alone in the ice cave. I stepped outside and after a moment of silence heard either Don Black, John Waterman, or Dave Ca...

AVALANCHE-UNSAFE CONDITIONS, WEATHER, POOR POSITION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–NO ICE AXAlaska, Chugach State Park, Flat Top MountainOn Saturday November 11, Nick Coltman (36) and his dog Boozer decided to get some exercise and do a fast hike up Flat T...

Manaslu Attempt. The 1978 Colorado Himalayan Expedition to Manaslu (26,760 feet) consisted of Dr. Charles Clark (deputy leader), Dr. Dee Crouch, Bruce Gordon, John Gordon, David Jones, Paul Parker, Sandy Read, Gerry Roach and me as leader. Verne a...

This is the thirty-seventh issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering published by The American Alpine Club.Canada: At the time of publication, the only available data from Canada were five reports sent in by David Jones and some newspape...

FALL ON ICE, PROTECTION PULLED OUT—ICE TOOLAlberta, Jasper National Park, Shades of BeautyOn November 25, three experienced ice climbers were climbing Shades of Beauty (III WI4), a three-pitch waterfall ice route in the Sunwapta River Valley of Ja...

FALL ON SNOW, BAD WEATHEROregon, Mount HoodAt 2:30 a.m. on Sunday, June 21, a group from the Mazamas gathered at the Cloud Cap Inn on the northeast side of Mount Hood and began a trek toward the summit via the Cooper Spur route.As the group was de...

Liberty Mountain, North Ridge. For years we had looked at this steep ridge from a distance, always fearing the horrible brush fight that separated it from the distant access roads. On June 1 Ron Miller and I made the first ascent of the ridge by w...

Lotte Pine Peak, South Corner. On May 26–27 Miguel Carmona and I established the South Corner (V 5.9 C1) on Lone Pine Peak. Our route takes the most direct line to the area where all of the routes on this part of the south face (Direct South Face,...

Mount Slesse, Northeast Buttress, First Winter Ascent. During the first eight days of March, Jim Nelson and Kit Lewis made the first winter ascent of the northeast buttress of Mount Slesse. After helicoptering to the base, the pair spent the next ...

Mount Huntington, South Ridge. An attempt in early July to climb the entire south ridge was an utter failure. Rotten sugar snow without any base prevailed due to the lack of the normal spring thaw. Avalanching was considerable. However, we did lea...

Peaks 9,035', 9,400'+, and 9,436', first ascents. Peak 11,000', attempt. On June 2 Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew me into the upper Nikonda Glacier at 7,200 feet for reconnaissance. I soloed the east face of Peak 9,035'. The climb started...