Supplemental Oxygen and Mountaineering DeathsO2: the extra breath of life on Everest and K2?by Xavier Eguskitza, United KingdomRaymond B. Huey, The University of WashingtonThe higher one climbs, the harder one works to climb. The increasing scarci...
Banderpunch 1 (Black Peak), Garhwal. On June 7 three members of the Indian Army Regiment of Artillery’s team and one Sherpa stood on the summit of Banderpunch I (20,956 feet), commonly called the Black Peak. (First ascent, June 7, 1955 by J. T. M....
Big Wall Climbing, by Doug Scott. New York and London: Oxford University Press, 1974. 248 pages, profuse illustrations. Price: $12.50.What a relief to see a mountaineering history book by an active climber! Doug Scott’s big wall climbing has taken...
Mount ForestaFred Beckey and Rick NoltingRICK NOLTING, JOHN RUPLEY, Craig Tillery and I had been for more than two frustrating weeks on the glacier south of Mount Vancouver. We had ski-planed in on June 30, hoping to climb the southernmost of the ...
Attempts on Chinchey and Huascarán. Graham Stephenson, leader, Russ and Donna Rasmussen, Erick Schmacher and I from the USA and David Corona, Ramón López, Humberto Zúñiga, Benjamin Casasola and Mariano Aguilera of Patrol 22 of the Mexican mountain...
FALL ON SNOW/ICEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, TeewinotOn June 4 about 0830, Jesse Stover (39) slipped and fell about 2,000 feet on the East Face route of Teewinot. He was ascending the peak with two other partners with the intent of skiing t...
Nanda Devi: 3e Expédition Française à l’Himalaya, by J.-J. Languepin and L. Payan. Photographs by J.-J. Languepin, L. Gevril and A. Barbezat. 72 pages of illustrations of which ten are in color, with 19 pages of commentary in French. Paris and Gre...
HASSLER WHITNEY1907-1989With the death of Hassler Whitney on May 10, 1989, the Club has lost one of the best known early climbers on the American scene and one of its most distinguished scientific members. Hassler was a friend to many of us who we...
Mount Slesse, East Buttress, 1977. John Stoddard and I climbed this new route from August 5 to 8, 1977. We drove to the gate of the En- sawquatch Creek road and hiked about three miles to where the Northeast Slesse Glacier drainage creek crosses t...
STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount EdithOn August 5, two climbers were attempting the South Ridge (II, 5.4) of MountEdith, but missed the start and got off route and onto steep limestone on the east face. They were lo...
Second Argentine Expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash. This group was sponsored by the Federatión Argentina de Esquí y Andinismo. The first Argentine expedition to this region had, in 1958, been the first to reach Yerupajá’s south summit (21,37...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Panch Chuli IV, First Ascent. A five-member team led by John Nankervis approached this remote peak in Kumaon from the Pyunshani Valley. The ridge was gained from the pocket névé above the top icefall between Panch Chuli IV and V at the head of the...
On October 22, after a three-day trek from Lukla, Tony Stone and I arrived at Tangnag (4,300m), a collection of tea houses that has grown over the years due to the popularity of nearby Mera Peak. We made base camp here and then set about acclimati...
Chacraraju Este, South Face, Alpamayo, West Face and Other Peaks. After two attempts, both of which were thwarted by bad weather, Steve Brewer and I made a new route on the south face of Chacraraju Este. Our route ascended in a more or less direct...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Middle TetonOn August 20 around 1400, while descending the Southwest Couloir of the Middle Teton, Paul Schladensky (34) fell on a snowfield just above the Middle/South Teton Saddle. He ini...
Ascents in the Quimsa CruzEvelio EchevarríaAS PROMISED in the previous issue of this Journal, a survey of ascents in the Quimsa Cruz range of Bolivia is offered here.1. Nevado Jachacunocollo, 5950 m. 19,521 ft.1. T. Herzog, C. Seelig, 1911. (note:...
Colorado Front Range Crags. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1993. 279pages, black-and-white photographs, topos, maps, $18.00.Colorado Front Range Crags is the latest guidebook to focus on the lesser known climbing spots that dot the Denver-Boulde...
Climbing in Arches National Park and Zion National Park, Southern Utah. Climbing activity is picking up in southern Utah where climbers are taking advantage of warm weather and abundant rock. The following is just a sampling. Arches National Park:...
The North Palisade—First Ascent of Second Highest PeakTo the lover of mountain scenery or the scaler of mountain peaks, the North Palisade is one of the most intriguing eminences of the Sierra Nevada. Rising in almost sheer walls to the north and ...