El Pico Erin, Xiuhtecuhtli. Xiuhtecuhtli is named for the God of Fire of the Nahuatl Cultures. The route, located in La Huasteca Canyon on El Pico Erin, is almost 500m high. Erin is beside the sacred wall of Tatewari, Grandfather Fire to the Hiuch...
Kilimanjaro and Other African ClimbsHenry S. Hall, Jr.ABOUT fifteen hours south of the rugged island of Madeira, on the voyage from England to Cape Town, we passed at night the Peak of Teneriffe, rising over 12,000 ft. from the sea, a dormant volc...
The Grand VoyageA solo enchainment of 10 Alpine faces in 15 daysby Jean-Christophe Lafailletranslation by Ernest SachsMonday, April 3After a railroad journey across beautiful bucolic Swiss countryside, I arrive at the Petite Scheidegg and the foot...
THEODORE E. SEILER 1908-1981Theodore E. Seiler, Chairman of the Board of the world reknowned Seiler Hotels in Zermatt, Switzerland, died in Zermatt on August 17, 1981.Theodore Seiler was born on August 4, 1908 at the Monte Rosa Hotel in Zermatt. H...
Nanga Parbat, Northeast Face, New Route. In July, Reinhold Messner, his brother Hubert Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, and climber/cameraman Wolfgang Tomaseth traveled to Nanga Parbat. Hubert doubled as the expedition doctor. After 14 years of abstin...
Taghia, Oujdad, west face, A Little Less Conversation. In March and April our team of German climbers, accompanied by the British couple Sarah and Tony Whitehouse, spent three weeks at Taghia. We were slow to get moving due to a surprising return ...
FALLING ROCK–DISLODGED BY PARTY ABOVEWyoming, Devil's Tower National Monument, Pseudo WeissnerOn May 29, Rita Sanders (46) of Bellview, Nebraska, was injured by a falling rock while climbing on Devils Tower. Sanders was climbing the Pseudo Weissne...
High Level: The Alps from End to End. David Brett. Victor Gollancz, North Pomfret (Vermont), 1983. 207 pages, black and white photographs, sketch maps. $23.50.In the summer of 1981, David Brett, an English writer, artist and climber, made a solo, ...
Summary of activities. In late January an experienced team of Russian mountaineers flew in to Dronning Maud Land, aiming to make a number of ascents among the spectacular spires for which this area is now famous. The group flew from Cape Town, Sou...
In January 2009 Olivier Cantet, Régine Lemaire, and Emmanuel Ratouis put up five new routes, and made two new canyon descents, in various parts of Oman.They first visited Tahab Canyon in the northeast of the country. Access is via the road to the ...
Mountaineering First Aid. Martha J. Lentz, Stephen C. Macdonald and Jan D. Carline. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 112 pages, black and white illustrations. $4.95.This first-aid booklet is a gem. It presents the immediate care of mountain enviro...
The Underhill Ridge of the Grand Teton. On 7 September 1952, Arnold Guess, Fred Zachariasen, and Leigh Ortenburger made the second ascent of the southeast ridge, better known as the Underhill ridge, of the Grand Teton.* Starting from the lower sad...
Atlas Mountains, Taghia, Oujdad peak (2,695 m), Barracuda. In the remote High Atlas Mountains, the Polish team of Eliza Kubarska, Borek Szybinski, and me free climbed a new multipitch route Barracuda (600m, 7c+max, 7a+ oblig). The climb runs throu...
Annapurna Dakshin. Six Japanese led by Yoshio Matsunaga climbed Annapurna Dakshin (South) by the southwest ridge. They established Base Camp and Camps I, II and III, at 4800, 5450, 5700 and 6400 meters on September 27, October 2, 9 and 19. On Octo...
World Mountaineering: The World’s Great Mountains by the World’s Great Mountaineers. Audrey Salkeld, general editor. Forward by Christian Bonington. Mitchell Beazley: London, U.K. 1998. Numerous color and black-and-white photographs, maps, topos. ...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, ROCK FLAKE CAME OFF, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, West RidgeOn April 13, my climbing partner Dave and I (Scott Bennett, 23) were psyched to be out in Eldo. Our destination was the West Rid...
There have been 32 presidents of the AAC, including me. Like me, many (perhaps too many) were trained in the law. A fair number were educators and medical doctors, and even one was a man of the cloth who gave sermons upon his descent from climbs i...
El enigma de los santuarios indígenas de alta montaña. Antonio Beorchia Nigris. Universidad Nacional de San Juan, San Juan, Argentina, 1987. 414 pages, 211 black & white photos, 74 maps, tables and diagrams.Risking being accused of gross exagg...
L’Homme et Le Mont Blanc, by Etienne Giudetti. Paris: Hachette, 1957.197 pages; panorama. Price 750 fr.In this account of Chamonix, its valley and Mont Blanc, the text is largely given over to the story of the mountain through the time of Saussure...
The Führerbücher of Hans and Christian KaufmannThrough the courtesy of G. Hasler, Esq. (A.C.), of Lausanne, the American Alpine Club has received photostatic copies of the Canadian entries in the Führerbücher of Johannes (Hans) Kaufmann (b. 1875) ...