Himalchuli, from the north. The Ukrainian National Himalayan Expedition climbed Himalchuli (7,893m) from the Lidanda Glacier to the north. Jointly led by Mstislav Gorbenko and Sergey Pugachev, the eight-member team arrived at the 3,600m base camp ...
Jonathan Copp 1974-2009Of all my friends who live their lives, I never thought that he would die. And even if he did, I thought he would surely rise like a Phoenix and keep on living.We last climbed together in the summer of 2008—life gets busy, I...
Gorichen East, Ascent. An Indian expedition from Calcutta, led by Asit Kr. Paul, summit- ted Gorichen East (6422 m ) on October 18. Summitters were Asit Paul, Sherpa Karma and Sherpa Dawa.Harish Kapadia, Editor, The Himalayan Journal
In 2011, after authorities denied me a visa to return to Socotra Island, Yemen, due to war mayhem, I looked at my long list of areas to explore, with more than 20 expeditions on the docket. Batu Daya caught my eye; I had never been there. The firs...
Risky Business on San LorenzoA single~push new route on Patagonia’s second-highest peak.Jordi CorominasOriol Baró and I had intended to climb elsewhere in the autumn of 2008, but due to permit problems we were forced to look for a new objective. P...
Mountaineering Women: Stories by Early Climbers. Edited, with an Introduction by David Mazel. Texas A & M University Press, 1994. 184 pages, black-and-white photographs, bibliography. $27.50 hardcover, $14.95 paperback.When I was asked to revi...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, MISCOMMUNICATIONWashington, Peshastin PinnaclesWhile I have no memory of this accident, I have been able to reconstruct the event based upon the observations of my climbing partner, Lynn. On May 22, she and I climbe...
THE NEACOLA RANGE, neatly tucked into the Lake Clark National Park in Alaska, has effortlessly kept climbers from converting it into a mountaineering goal. Neacola, its highest peak at 9426 feet, had spumed two previous attempts. The only publishe...
Yosemite in the Sixties. Glen Denny. Santa Barbara, CA. Patagonia and T. Adler Books. 2007.106 black and white photos. 144 pages. Hardcover. $60.00.If you take a chunk of the real world and shove it through a lens, voila, you have a photograph. So...
Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climbers Guide. Bernard Gillet. Earth- bound Press, 1993. 271 pages, black-and-white photos, maps and diagrams. $21.95.Comment: This guide covers the most popular climbing areas in Rocky Mountain National Park as ...
Royal Tower, Canadian Bacon, and Thunder Mountain, Maxim. Shawn Huisman and I climbed two new routes during a two-week door-to-door trip to the Alaska Range. This was our first climbing trip to Alaska, and we consider ourselves lucky to have pulle...
AVALANCHENew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonAlbert Dow, a member of the New Hampshire Mountain Rescue Service, died in an avalanche near the base of the Lion’s Head while engaged in a search for two missing climbers (see previous report). The details ...
Masherbrum LaRichard M. and Patricia H. EmersonIN the summer of ’74 our party1 discovered that the Masherbrum La does exist, it is passable, and it opens up one of the most splendid mountain tours in the world.Virtually all previous trips into the...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–DULL CRAMPONSOregon, Mount Hood, South SideOn March 23, two climbers (both 22) were descending the South Side standard route on Mount Hood. One of the climbers lost his footing at the “Pearly Gates” (roughly 11,00...
The Last Sandwich— A Beta-MinimumThomas HigginsTHE OPPOSITE OF A BETA-MAX is a beta-min: a route with scanty information about difficulty or direction or history. It may not be in a local guidebook because it is too new. Or perhaps the first-ascen...
AVALANCHE, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlaska, ValdezOn April 6, 1984, Glenn Larson (31), of Valdez, Alaska, was climbing with four partners on a peak which rises to 1500 meters out of the east side of the Valdez Arm.The initial part of the ascent had been on...
Condoriri Area, Various Ascents and Map Correction. The 2000 Cordillera Real Expedition from the Colorado State University Outdoor Adventure Program climbed a number of peaks in the Condoriri area, and made an ascent of a rarely climbed, but spect...
HANS KRAUS 1906-1996 Dr. Hans Kraus died on March 5, 1996, in his home in New York City. He had been a member of the Club for 55 years. He was best known in the climbing world for his pioneering efforts in developing the Shawangunks. He also mad...
AVALANCHE, CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount Barrill, Japanese CouloirOn Tuesday evening, May 15th, Andre Callari (33) and Brian Postlethwait (32) set out from their basecamp on the Ruth Glacier to climb the...
AUGUST SEVERIN EGGERS1862-1936Dr. August Eggers died of pernicious anemia on October 7th, 1936, at the age of seventy-three. Norwegian by birth, he received his M.D. from the Kongelige Frederiks Universitet Medisinske Fakultet, in Oslo, in 1889. F...