FitzRoy, Super Couloir. On October 19, Jim Quirk and I arrived at the Piedra del Fraile on the Río Eléctrico, north of Fitz Roy. After stormy weather, on October 23 we hiked up steep slopes and moraine above the Piedra del Fraile, crossed the Paso...
Kondus. Our expedition was not very ambitious since we chose the easiest route on Kondus: the northern slope. Kondus lies between Chogolisa and Baltoro Kangri. Our team had ten members with me as leader. We left Skardu on July 3 with 30 porters. W...
Cerro Murallon, The Lost World. Finally, after nearly three weeks of waiting and repeated shipments of gear and food, we stand before the Cerro Murallon with its wide north face. This immense face starts at the clearly defined northeast ridge and ...
Portal Creek Region, Canadian Rockies. Near the head of Portal Creek and east of the Ramparts lies a mountain group, including the Trident Range, which has received little attention. In 1930 N. D. Waffl climbed Mt. Estrella, which he described as ...
Huascarán, Southwest Ridge. Dr. Ulrich Schwabe, Karl Gabl, Dr. Raimund Margreiter and I got to Base Camp above Carhuaz at 14,000 feet on July 6. We traversed across moraine to the ridge and set up Camp I at 17,000 feet. The climbing on the glacier...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. A seven-member Polish party, led by Kazimierz Malczyk, set up Base Camp on August 4 below the 1962 Diamir Face route. A week later Camp III had been established at 6900 meters. Unfortunately, on August 13 the weather changed ...
Shawangunk Rock Climbs, by Richard C. Williams. New York: American Alpine Club, 1972, 136 pages, $6.50.Eight years have elapsed since the publication of the first guide to the Gunks. In that period the number of climbers frequenting the cliffs has...
Washington—Cascade Mts., Mt. St. Helens: On 7 September 1953, a Sunday School party was out on the Toutle glacier without mountaineering equipment or ropes. One of the boys started to slip into an open crevasse when the leader of the party, Dr. Ra...
Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Moran Canyon. On 14 July Van Yancey (19) was in a belay position when a test pull from below pulled him from the position and his single nut anchor pulled out. He fell about 20 feet landing on his hands and the back of his n...
Changtse. I was the leader of a 16-person Italian expedition to Changtse in July and August. We got to Base Camp at 5100 meters late in July. Camps I, II and III were at 5850, 6250 and 6900 meters, the latter on the ridge of Changtse. Because of m...
Glacier Point, Galactic Hitchhiker. On October 14, Lou Renner of Santa Cruz, California, and I (from San Francisco), completed a first ascent of a new Grade VI “big wall” in Yosemite Valley. The climb, Galactic Hitchhiker, is located behind Curry ...
Gasherbrum II. Our group was composed of Chileans Luis García, Fernando Luchsinger, Italo Valle and me as leader. Our objective was the normal route on Gasherbrum II. After delays caused by the Pakistani customs, we finally arrived at Base Camp on...
Kalanka, north face, attempt. Kalanka is 6,931 meters and is joined to Changabang bordering the massive Nanda Devi Sanctuary. There is only one confirmed line on the north side of Kalanka, climbed by a Czech team. We set up base camp on May 1, and...
Manda III. Scot Andy Cunningham, Englishman Richard Mansfield and Irishmen Gary Murray and I arrived on the Bhrigupanth Glacier on September 8 but were confined to Base Camp for the next eleven days by very bad weather. When it eventually cleared,...
At 11:30 a.m. on July 25 Sergey Samoilov and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan stepped onto the summit of Broad Peak (8,047m) after a remarkable ascent of the previously unclimbed southwest face. The two climbed the 2,500m route alpine-style, in six da...
Karwendel, Schönstes Naturschutzgebiet der Kalkal pen. By Robert Löbl. Introductory trilingual text by Heinrich Kher. Innsbruck: Tiroler Graphik, 1956. 88 pages, 64 illustrations.The Karwendel is a mountain area of Tyrol, comprising nearly 1000 sq...
Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Attempt. Pierre Rizzardo, leader, Robin Molinatti, Xavier Cret and I attempted a climb on the north side of Kumbhakarna (7710 meters, 25,295 feet). We planned to climb a new route leading to the virgin pass between Sobithongie ...
Shingu Charpa, east face. While planning our expedition back home, I could not get over the fact that it seemed prudent to plan 20 days for our new route on Shingu Charpa’s east wall. But looking at the photos, that’s what my experience suggested....
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Parleys CanyonOn March 19, Guy Riley (25) fell while climbing on a popular rock buttress at the mouth of Parleys Canyon. Details were somewhat sketchy but Mr. Rileys protection apparently...
Nevado Rurec and Other Peaks. Guiding for the Iowa Mountaineers, Franz Mohling and I helped to establish various routes in the Quebrada Rurec region. Counting from Nevado Rurec south to Uruashraju, we named the three minor peaks Rurec #1, #2 &...