Lucania, Steele, Sluggard, Macauly.* On June 16, Robbie Babb, Bob and Richie Kyrlach and I, all from Albuquerque, were flown by Jack Wilson to Base Camp at the head of the Chitina Glacier. Although the highest peaks had been climbed from other dir...
Table Mountain, Death Picnic. Due west of Austin Pass and the Mount Baker Ski Area is a mesa-like peak called Table Mountain. When it is cold, the east and northwest faces offer good one- and two-pitch ice climbs. In December of 1985 I attempted a...
Moose’s Tooth. In July Yvon Chouinard, Galen Rowell, Sandy Bill and I made another attempt on the southeast face of the Moose’s Tooth. After two days on the face in good weather we reached the high point of the year before. However I fell sick and...
Langpo Gang, Jugal Himal. Another Japanese expedition was also in Nepal at the same time. Under the leadership of Tokujiro Kajimoto, they climbed to within a few hundred feet of the summit of Langpo Gang (Big White Peak) (23,240 feet) but they had...
Kharchakund. Our expedition consisted of the following: Yoshiki Yamanaka, Masao Mizuno, Toshiharu Hashimoto, Yoshitaka Tanimura, Kaoru Ueno and me as leader. We climbed the west ridge from the Ghanohim Glacier. There had been three unsuccessful In...
Hawk’s Beak, West Face. This peak is 11,120 feet high, a quarter mile south of Kirkwood Lake. It is a crest peak, helping form the northern boundary of Yosemite National Park. It is listed in the old Smatko guide, but does not appear in the Roper ...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FryattOn August 18, 1985, two men (35 and 15) left their high camp and climbed all day on the southwest face of Mt. Fryatt. They had only climbing boots and day packs...
Saser Kangri, Second Ascent. Saser Kangri (25,170 feet) was first climbed in 1973 by an Indian expedition led by Jogindar Singh. It was climbed again in 1979 by 13 of the 50-member Army team led by Colonel Jagjit Singh. Major Prem Chand was deputy...
CB 14. A Japanese party made the first ascent of CB 14, climbing the east ridge. They climbed an icefall to reach a col on the east ridge at 17,500 feet. On September 10, after a bivouac on the col, Akira Yoshitomi and Toshio Kurihara reached the ...
El Capitan, New Route. This year Rick Sylvester and Claud Wreford-Brown made a new route between the Heart Direct and the John Muir Route, using part of the lower Muir and going up the right side of the Heart (the Kroger-Davis route goes up the le...
Namshila. Thirteen Japanese men and three women led by Shohei Komiya were given permission to climb a 6595-meter peak, Namshila. Base Camp was set up at 5070 meters on the Godhu Chu (river). Camp I was placed on a snow plateau at 5400 meters. The ...
Annapurna To Dhaulagiri: A Decade of Mountaineering in Nepal Himalaya 1950–1960, by Dr. Harka Gurung. Kathmandu: His Majesty’s Govt. Press, 1968. 122 pages, 8 pages of color plates, 9 plates of black and white, 2 maps, bibliography, appendices and...
Lemon Mountains, first ascents and new routes. The increasingly popular Lemon Mountains were visited by a 10-member Scottish expedition comprising Alison Callum, Iain Hall, Andy Lole, Brian Moretta, Phil Reynolds, John Sanders, Andy Saxby, Claire ...
Everest, Mountain Without Mercy. Broughton Cobum. Introduction by Tim Cahill, afterword by David Breashears. National Geographic Society, 1997. Color photographs. 256 pages. $35.00.Everest, Mountain without Mercy is the story of the 1996 Internati...
Chaqri Zom, Southern Part of Buni Zom Group. Tsuneo Miyamori, leader, Motohiko Kohgo and his wife Kiyomi, Tokuhiko Nemoto, Akira Kadota, and Ichiro Ishii of Tokyo University of Agriculture were joined in Pakistan by Minoru Tanaka and Hideo Yuri of...
Kangtega Attempt and Ama Dablam Ascent. German Hans Eitel led a group of ten from Germany, Austria, the United States and the South Tirol. Eight first attempted Kangtega by its southeast face while two went directly to Ama Dablam. Six and a Sherpa...
Churup, Northwest Ridge, direct variation. On May 24 Ben Ditto and I climbed a direct line up the northwest ridge of Nevado Churup (5,493m), beginning on the west side of a squat rock buttress separated from the main peak by a narrow col. We dubbe...
Rock Climbs in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Ed Webster. Mountain Imagery, Conway, New Hampshire, 1982. 294 pages, black and white photographs, route diagrams, bibliography. $14.95.“Have you seen the new guide to the Valley, man? Like it’s...
Monte Ada. On Saturday, February 3, the rather grandly titled British Darwin Range Expedition 2001 arrived in the city of Ushuaia in Argentine Tierra del Fuego. For an expedition with such a large name we were rather short on members. In fact only...
Bandar Punch I. Gurdial Singh led a group of Indian cadets to Bandar Punch (20,720 feet). On June 12 Major R.S. Malia, Instructor Nima, Cadets M.P.S. Chaudhry, A.K. Sinha, K. Babayya and then Captain H.S. Bagga, Instructors Greesh and Nima Dorje, ...