FROSTBITE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—Alaska, Brooks Range. During the ski traverse of the Brooks Range by the Antioch College “Challenge/ Discovery” group in the early spring of 1977, four members of the team experienced frostbite and evacuation was ne...
Cajavilca. The Canadians John Ricker, Lisle Irwin and Dr. Karl Tomm were joined in the Quebrada Ulta by Scots David Todd and James Gardner. The latter two unsuccessfully tried a new route, the south ridge of Contra- hierbas. The whole group then a...
Kongur Tagh (7,719m), northeast ridge, new route. Kongur Tagh’s summit is on China territory close to the border of two big mountain systems, the Pamir and Kun Lun. It is supposed to be the highest mountain of Pamir. In spite of its altitude, Kong...
Mount Kimball, Alaska Range. In August a party of ten from the Alaska Alpine Club hiked in sometimes drizzly, usually foggy weather from the terminus of the Can well Glacier at the Richardson Highway, across the upper Gakova Glacier and down an un...
FALLING ROCK, OFF ROUTE, STRANDEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LouisOn July 26, a party of two attempted Greenwood Route (III, 5.7) on the south Face of Mount Louis. They had difficulty following the route and found the climbing much more diffic...
Maiktoli Ascent. Lavraj Sinh led an Indian team from Almora, Kumaon to the summit (6803 meters) on September 21 via the south face. The 12-member team approached the mountain from the Sunderdhunga Valley in the south. They established three camps ...
Arcturus, Northwest Face of Half Dome. Late in the afternoon of July 18, Dick Dorworth and I arrived at the base of the northwest face of Half Dome. It was like a furnace there. The spring, as we had feared, was dry, but luckily we discovered a tr...
Huascarán, Northeast Ridge. Our expedition of 18 climbers was in the region in August, mostly in the Quebrada Llanganuco. On August 13 Montserrat Jou, Ricard Cots, Joseph Salvans and Xavier Sola climbed the normal route on Chopicalqui. Pisco Oeste...
Tharkot, Kumaon and Hathi Varbat, Garhwal. Indians made several ascents in 1963, which were not reported in the A.A.J., 1964. On June 1 Tharkot (20,010 feet) was climbed by K. P. Sharma, B. B. Ambastha, K. S. Thapa and the Sherpas Lhakpa and Hisse...
Gothic Peak, West Face. The Sultan Basin road goes by the base of the west face of Gothic Peak, long an objective of mine. On July 9, Gary Rose and I started up through the wet brush so characteristic of early morning climbs in this area. Soon a s...
Huascarán High-Altitude Research. Dr. Makoto Hara led his second Japanese high-altitude research expedition to Huascarán. (The first had been to Tharkot in Garhwal in 1977.) Two physiologists and a nurse also accompanied the 33 men and four women,...
Ancohuma, 21,030 ft., in the Cordillera Real of Bolivia, has after the lapse of a number of years been climbed again, also by German climbers. Messrs. Erwin Hein and Hans Weber succeeded during a week’s trip from Sorata in ascending the mountain f...
Lizard Head, East Face. Highest peak in the Cirque of the Towers region, 12,842-foot Lizard Head is a long scramble from Lonesome Lake, but the “east face, overlooking Bear Lake, is a series of overhanging upside-down ledges, impossible to contemp...
Conness, Plan B. In June Paul Teare and I went in to Conness with a plan to climb the Harding Route, while keeping a keen eye on the possibility of something new. We realized our fate when we saw two climbers above us heading toward the Harding Ro...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount RainierThis accident occurred as a RMI guided team was descending from the summit. Two rope teams were clipped into the same fixed line when the avalanche occurred. The avalanche caught the first rope team, which pulled ...
Palung Peak, Siguang Peak, Cho Oyu, Attempts and Ascents. Together with my wife Marija I joined the Croatian Cho Oyu Expedition led by Darko Berljak. Above basecamp we worked separately. We wanted to climb a new route on the northwest ridge of the...
Two Other Attempts on Siulá Chico. A solo attempt by the German Fritz Stammberger and another try by a Japanese expedition from Kansai University of seven climbers led by Hiroshi Sugihara met with very little success.
St. Elias, Southwest Ridge. Josef Hassler and I made the eleventh ascent of Mount St. Elias, the fourth of the southwest ridge and the first in alpine style. We took eight days round trip from Base Camp. We were flown from Yakutat by Mike Ivers on...
Mt. McKinley’s northwest face, Father and Sons Wall, The Great White Fright. Having barely survived the crux of any Alaskan trip, we dragged ourselves from the acrid atmosphere of the Fairview and flew to Kahiltna base camp. Exchanging hangover fo...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF RAPPELLER, CLIMBING UNROPEDNorth Carolina, Crowders MountainIn April 1981, a person was rappelling from Crowders Mountain when he knocked off an unroped climber. (Source: T. C. P. Zimmermann)AnalysisWhile there are no furt...