Nepalese guides and brothers Nima Gyalzen Sherpa and Pemba Dorje Sherpa, along with their nephew Tenzing Jangbu Sherpa (grandson of Ang Rita Sherpa and currently living in the USA), led two clients, Jaime Salinas (Mexico) and the Nepalese singer Sajja Chaulagain, on the first known ascent of the recently named Jugal V. This indistinct summit (5,922m, 28°8’48.26”N, 85°51’17.10”) lies on the southwest ridge of Yangri’s northwest peak, an unnamed mountain of about 6,300m. Chaulagain is reportedly attempting unclimbed peaks in Nepal to promote women in the arts.

The little-visited Jugal Glacier (see AAJ 2020) is being promoted by local tourism officials, and in 2021 guide Tul Singhi Gurung (who in 2019 made the first ascent of Gyalsten, above the east side of the Jugal Glacier) was employed to make a via ferrata up a rock buttress giving access to the glacier. The Jugal V team established base camp above the 130m via ferrata at Nyang Kharka (4,724m). From there, on October 24, they reached the southwest ridge of Jugal V from the south and followed it to the summit.

— Lindsay Griffin, AAJ