Flat Top, First Ascent, via East Ridge

India, Jammu and Kashmir, Kishtwar Himalaya
Author: Pete Finklaire. Climb Year: 1980. Publication Year: 2024.

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The east ridge of Flat Top descends east and then northeast toward the camera, as seen from the first camp above col camp on the ridge. Photo by Pete Finklaire.

The first ascent of Flat Top was not documented in the AAJ, and other reports were unclear about the route. The following is a first-person description of the 1980 ascent.

In August 1980, our four-man expedition, comprising Murray Hodgson, Roger Phillips, Rod Wilson, and me, approached Kishtwar town from the west via Jammu, as was normal in those days. From there we drove to Suid village and the start of the trek along the Nanth Nullah. We established base camp at Sattarchin (approximately 3,400m, 33°33'26.42"N, 76° 2'35.51"E), at the end of the Brammah Glacier. Subsequently, we moved climbing gear up to an advanced base on the south bank of the Brammah Glacier, just below the point where it swings south toward Brammah I and Flat Top. From there, with the help of local porters, we spent three days establishing a camp on the glacier under the north face of unclimbed Flat Top (6,100m, 33°27'56.54"N, 76°5'23.69"E).

As it descends, the east ridge of Flat Top swings to the northeast, and we set about reaching a col low on the northeast ridge. The weather settled into a pattern of storms in the late afternoon and evening, so we were forced to sit out several bad days at this site. With time getting short, Rod went down to glacier camp to retrieve more supplies and, eventually, go down to organize porters for the return trek. Our liaison officer had already retreated to Suid, having had no intention of staying on the mountain.

We could see the ridge above was heavily corniced, and as we gained height we were forced onto the southeast face, which made for time-consuming traversing. We made our first camp just off the ridge, and Rod returned to bring supplies up to this point. It worried us seeing him soloing down in the late afternoon, but he got back to glacier camp just before dark.

As snow conditions were not good, we decided to stay on the southeast face, rather than climb back onto the crest. After descending a little, we managed to climb through a rock band, and we pitched the tent just below the final section of the ridge, beyond the highest col, where it now rose west to the summit. The climbing had been continuously steep, with route-finding challenges.

Next morning dawned clear, and we made a lightweight push for the summit. At this altitude snow conditions were good, and we found continuous and sustained difficulties. The weather worsened as we climbed a long and beautiful ridge to the large summit cornices, which we eventually negotiated by making a long traverse left. We then carefully crossed the final section of the alarmingly corniced summit ridge to the highest point.

We descended to the tent by a combination of many rappels and downclimbing. Fortunately, the next morning was clear, and after stripping camp we continued down, reaching the initial tent site on the col late that evening. After yet another stormy night, we descended to the glacier, finding Rod had already brought most gear down to advanced base and organized porters. Roger and I had to make one more trip to glacier camp to bring down the remaining loads, then returned to Sattarchin to complete a very tiring day.

The mountain gave us a great climb, with tricky route-finding and sustained difficulties, probably around Alpine AD/D.

— Pete Finklaire, U.K.



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