Ďuri Švingál and I flew to Lima on July 18, then traveled to Huaraz. Aguja Nevada I (5,840m), above Laguna Parón, was our choice for acclimatization. Then, after consultation with the mountain guides’ office in Huaraz, we chose a new destination. Several days later, we arrived at Laguna Tuctubamba (4,200m), below the east side of the Taulliraju massif, and set up base camp.

On August 3, after a bivouac at the base, we started up the unclimbed southwest face of Tuctubamba West (5,140m), a peak on the long ridge extending southeast and then east from Taulliraju. [The climbers initially called this peak Marva, believing it was unclimbed. They later discovered it was called Tuctubamba West (8°54’12”S, 77°33’30”W) and was first climbed in 1960 by an Italian team, who ascended a glacier on the southeast side, then traversed around to the north side to finish.]

Our route began with several hundred meters of chimneys and corners, around 6a. After reaching a big ledge and ramp system, we traversed up and left. Above this, we simul-climbed for several hundred meters, then more chimneys and corners led to the first snowfield. After two snow pitches, we put aside the tools and climbed a beautiful 6b rock pitch, followed by steep snow and run-out M6+ mixed. Some loose rock led to a final pitch of 6b and the summit.

Our descent involved 14 rappels and took six hours, and we returned to the bivouac below the face after a total of 19 hours. We called our new route The Line Under the Sky (1,100m climbing distance, 6b M6+).

— Marek Radovsky, Slovakia