In June, Thomas Franchini made a solo attempt on the north face of Trivor (7,728m) in the Hispar Muztagh. He approached up the Momhil Valley, where he had climbed the previous year (AAJ 2023). Unfortunately, in June and July 2023 the conditions were much worse, with large quantities of spring snow and very high temperatures. Although he planned a direct ascent of the face, he was forced to try a safer route toward the right side of the face. At 6,100m, he decided it was too dangerous and retreated.

This shapely mountain was first climbed from the Trivor Glacier to the south and west to gain the high col at the foot of the northwest ridge. The summit was reached via this ridge in August 1960 by Wilfred Noyce (U.K.) and Jack Sadler (USA). The only other known ascent was made in 1991 by Atsushi Endo and Toshifumi Onuki from a large Japanese expedition that approached up the Momhil Glacier. They climbed a northeast-facing spur until it met the east ridge of Momhil Sar, then descended to the col at the foot of Trivor’s northwest ridge. The expedition placed a camp on this ridge at around 6,900m, from where Endo and Onuki reached the top.

— Lindsay Griffin, AAJ