Quebrada Llaca and Quebrada Cojup, New Rock Climbs

Peru, Cordillera Blanca
Author: Manuel "Manu" López Ponce. Climb Year: 2022. Publication Year: 2023.

Two of the closest valleys to Huaraz for rock climbing in the Cordillera Blanca are the Quebrada Llaca and Quebrada Cojup, both about one hour northeast of the city.

At the entrance to the Quebrada Llaca is the Portada. This massive granite wall currently has ten mostly traditionally protected routes. It is a perfect place to acclimatize for climbs in the big mountains because the top is approximately 4,300m.

image_4In July 2022, Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, and I completed La Vía de Todos (240m, 7c) on the Portada. The first two pitches were opened in 2020 by Micher Quito, Jack Sierralta, and Cesar Vicuña, along with help from Joseph Castellano, Luciana Juarez, Michello Patiño, and Alma Robín. In July, we established five additional pitches, free climbing the entire route.

During the same month, also on the Portada, Iker and I established and freed La Monjita de Mato Grosso (170m, 7b+) over two days. The fourth pitch is the hardest and involves a roof boulder problem.

In Quebrada Cojup, Diego Arias and I completed a new route at the entrance of the valley, up an obvious arête feature on the right side. The first three pitches (mostly bolted) were opened by Carlos Ly and friends. Diego and I established six more pitches to the top of the formation. Pitch six is the hardest, with a boulder problem over a small roof (6c). With around 300m of moderate climbing, it will be a classic for the area. Carlos Ly suggested we call it The Latin Kings (300m, 6c).

— Manuel "Manu" López Ponce, Peru



Media Gallery