In August, Krzysztof Wielicki visited the Dih Dur Valley with Grzegorz Chwoła, Frank Gasser (Italy), Roman Gierach, Katarzyna Karwecka-Wielicka, Wojciech Walas, and Dariusz Załuski (all Poles apart from Gasser). The logistics were organized by Jasmine Tours. The expedition reached Shimshal on the 4th and the next day trekked to Zardgarben (ca 4,075m) in the Zardgarben Dur Valley. On August 6, with 20 porters and eight donkeys, they reached a campsite at 4,778m at the beginning of the side valley leading to Broad Saddle (a.k.a. Joshi Pass, 5,440m GPS).

The following day the group split. Four porters and the donkeys crossed Boisum Pass (ca 4,930m), reached the Ghujerab River, and followed it to Dih and eventually into the Dih Dur Valley and on to a base camp at 4,726m (approximately 36°34'2.66"N, 75°16'16.89"E), which they reached on the 9th. Meanwhile, the rest of the expedition climbed scree, snow, and ice to the vast Joshi Pass, descended the far side to the Dih Glacier, and then went down this to the 4,726m base camp, located on the south side of the river. On the 11th, feeling unwell, Gasser, accompanied by one porter, decided to return to Shimshal via Joshi Pass.

As part of the acclimatization program, two camps were made on the First Ice Flow (glacier), at 5,301m and 5,400m. On the 14th, Walas left the 5,400m camp and reached the previously unclimbed Yazpurz Col (5,669m, 36°34'58.29"N, 75°18'42.84"E) at the head of the glacier. At the same time, Wielicki and Załuski reconnoitered an approach to the east ridge of unclimbed Dih Sar (reported as either 6,200m or 6,363m).

On the 15th, after spending a night at the 5,400m camp, Karwecka-Wielicka, Wielicki, and Załuski climbed a steep snow and ice slope onto the ridge running northwest from Yazpurz Col. They then followed the crest until it joined the northeast ridge of Peak 53.1 (as designated on Jerzy Wala’s most recent Karun Koh Mountain Group sketch map; 36°35'5.32"N, 75°18'10.78"E). They followed the ridge to this top, which, after consultation with Jerzy Wala, they have named Dih Sar East (ca 6,100m).

From here the ridge continues west to the main peak of Dih Sar. It looked complex, with large cornices, and would require several descents and reascents, so the team went no further. On the 17th everyone was at base camp.

On the 18th, Gierach, Karwecka-Wielicka, Wielecki, and Zaluski walked out to Shimshal via Joshi Pass in a long day, while Chwola and Walas followed with porters and took two days, with a night at Shpodeen (4,452m GPS) alongside the Zardgarben River.

— Janusz Majer, Poland, from information provided by Grzegorz Chwoła and Krzysztof Wielicki

Editor’s Note: Dih Sar was first attempted in 2019 via the First Ice Flow and southeast face by Polish climbers Jakub Bogdanski and Michal Ilczu. The same pair returned in 2020, with tragic consequences. See AAJs 2020 and 2021.