Torres del Brujo, New Routes
Chile, Central Andes, Sierra del Brujo
The Torres del Brujo (34°42'10"S, 70°22'22"W) comprise a little-visited area of granite spires near the terminus of Glaciar Universidad (ca 3,000m), 50km east of San Fernando, Chile. [Editor’s note: See AAJ 1999, 2005, 2008, and 2010 for more background on the area; a number of routes are not well-documented.]
In December, Isidora Montesinos, Alexis Rojas, and I climbed a new route (230m, 5.11+) on Aguja de la Paz, located in an unglaciated sector below the main spires. After this, Isidora and I continued up to the main spires, which are at the base of the steep, narrow glacier extending southeast from Cerro El Brujo (4,740m). For our second climb, we completed a new route on La Aguja Dama, on the east side of the glacier. Le Pusimos Espíritu Del Brujo (400m, 5.11) climbs to the left of A Ultima Dama (AAJ 2008). [There are at least two other routes to the right of A Ultima Dama.]
I returned to the spires with Isidora in January 2022 to climb a route on the area’s principal spire, on the west side of the glacier (sometimes referred to as Brujo Falso or Torre Grande). Our route, Los Guardianes Del Brujo (650m, 5.10+) begins in the notch formed by the adjacent 300m spire, Aprendiz del Brujo (home to several routes), and then ascends a line to the left (east) of previously established routes on the 500m northeast face; these include Los Últimos Días De Inocencia (5.11+ A2; Brewer-Richter), Clandestino (5.12d A1; AAJ 1999), Gandalf y Saurón (5.11 A3+; Globis-Martin-Zegers), and Linea de los Suenos Sueltos (6b A3; AAJ 2010).
Our route required several days of portering gear, cleaning, and climbing. The approach was the crux for us, with constant rockfall and avalanches setting a threatening tone. However, once established on the wall, we were protected. With approximately 650m of free climbing never exceeding 5.10+, Los Guardianes could easily become the “normal route” on this beautiful granite needle.
— Nicolás Gutiérrez, Chile
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