Cerro Catedral, North Face, Dos Hermanos
Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres Del Paine
We started thinking about Cerro Catedral after seeing its 1,000m east face from Trono Blanco in 2019. Over January 18–19, 2022, we ventured to open the first route on the north face of this jewel. [The north face is accessed from Valle del Francés, via the Irish Couloir, but the face actually rises one valley to the west, above Glaciar Perros.]
Our route up the left (east) side of the face required a lot of navigation to connect crack systems. On day one, we climbed 12 pitches and then found an incredible ledge two-thirds of the way up to bivy. On day two, we climbed eight more pitches, finishing this unforgettable climb and the first Chilean route on this wonderful mountain. To descend, we rappelled our route. We placed three protection bolts in all, and two short wet sections required us to pull on gear (A0). We called our 20-pitch route Dos Hermanos (800m, 5.11+ A0).
– Cristóbal Señoret and Juan Señoret, Chile
Editor’s Note: Cerro Catedral was first climbed by a British team in 1971 via its west ridge. The east face is home to three independent routes (from left to right): the 1993 Italian route Il Volo Del Condor (1,000m, UIAA VII+, A3+), which finished at a lower subsummit; the 1992 American route La Escoba de Dios (1,000m, 5.10 A4+); and the 1994 Spanish route Cristal de Roca (6b A4). La Escoba de Dios was free climbed with significant variations in 2013: The Belgian route (1,000m, 7c+) shares pitches 1–6 and 18–19 with La Escoba de Dios, but mostly climbs to the left. Refer to AAJs 1971, 1992, 1993, 1994, and 2013 for complete info. The 2022 climb was the first ascent of the north face.
— Erik Rieger, with information from Rolando Garibotti and the AAJ.