Urus Oeste, Northwest Face

Peru, Cordillera Blanca
Author: Steve Meder. Climb Year: 2021. Publication Year: 2022.

On September 3, Antonio Chinchay, Silio Chinchay (both Peru), and I approached Urus Oeste (5,450m; 9°21'42"S, 77°27'21"W) via the Uruscocha Valley, starting from the town of Pashpa (3,450m). We camped near the second lake in the Uruscocha Valley at 4,335m, just below the northwest face of Urus Oeste, which had no recorded routes. [Urus Oeste was first climbed by its east ridge (AAJ 1964) from the col separating it from Urus Central (5,495m). The better-known Urus Este (5,420m) is typically climbed from the Ishinca Valley to the south.]

The next day, Silio and I approached up the moraine from camp, reaching a tarn at the base of the face (4,800m). From here, we climbed up decomposing rock with some vertical rock steps (UIAA III) for approximately 300m. We traversed left below the steep upper headwall to reach the hanging glacier, then ascended 45–50° ice slopes and, eventually, easier snow slopes to the summit. The route up the northwest face (600m, AD UIAA III 45–50°) took us approximately five hours from our camp.

We descended to the east, climbing over a rocky subpeak, then down snow slopes to the broad col (5,100m) between Urus Oeste and Urus Central, where we could descend to our camp in the Uruscocha Valley.

— Steve Meder, Peru



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