Panbari, Second Ascent and First Ski Descent
Nepal, Peri Himal
Panbari (6,905m) was first climbed by a Japanese expedition in late September 2006 via the Fukan Glacier and the slightly rounded, snowy north ridge. The lower Fukan had complex icefalls, unstable seracs, and hidden crevasses that took the team more than a week to negotiate. In 2011, aspiring to climb the north ridge of Panbari, Paulo Grobel’s team avoided the lower Fukan Glacier via a cunning route on straightforward snow slopes to the right, reaching the upper Fukan plateau directly. In 2016 Jean Annequin used this line to try a ski descent of Panbari, but abandoned the attempt at just over 6,000m due to dangerous snow conditions.
Annequin returned in autumn 2021 with a team of around 15 members and established base camp on October 9 at 4,750m. Camp 1 (5,353m GPS) was established on the 12th and 13th. Unfortunately, while conditions were excellent, Annequin’s forecaster in France predicted a huge storm on the 17th, with an estimated 1.5m of snow. They had to go for the summit right away.
On the 14th, Camp 2 was set up at 6,345m, and the next day only four of the team were sufficiently acclimatized to climb the north ridge to the summit: the guides Jean Annequin and Jean- Sébastien Knoertzer, along with Gilles Ciselet and Loïc Renard. Annequin recorded an altitude of 6,983m (+/- 7m). The route had not been demanding (35–40°) and the climbers ascended and descended on skis, without using crampons or axes. They also summited two "bumps" on the plateau, one of 6,480m, the other a little below 6,600m.
— Information from Rodolphe Popier, Himalayan Database, France