Bridge Mountain, West Face, For the Doggs
United States, Utah, Zion National Park
From November 1 to 3, Ky Hart and I climbed a new route on the west face of Bridge Mountain, which we dubbed For the Doggs. The route starts 300’ left of the popular ACL Arête (10 pitches, 5.10), established by Tyler Philips and Robbie Colbert in 2010, and follows a series of exquisite cracks in a black shield of rock.
Ky had established the first four pitches solo the week before, and with a belay he was able to free the spectacular first pitch at 5.11. After four pitches, the route intersects ACL Arête and then, via a difficult combination of rappelling and traversing, dives down and left into the massive gully that splits the west face. From here we tried to hook left under the upper headwall of the west face but failed to find any cracks to follow off the large ledge system. We downclimbed back into the gully, and then climbed solid easier terrain until crossing ACL again on the west ridge.
We believe we only climbed two pitches of ACL Arête, but that route’s exact line is unclear and wandering once high on the mountain.
For the Doggs has 15 pitches and comes in at V 5.11 A2. It is a full-on Zion adventure route requiring much trickery, including hauling off small trees, and complicated route-finding. Bivy ledges and sunset views are plentiful. The first four pitches have bolted anchors; the rest are gear anchors. Descend ACL Arête via the bolted rap anchors.
— Matt Ward