Pik Oolong, Attempt

China, Xinjiang, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too
Author: Evgeny Murin. Climb Year: 2021. Publication Year: 2022.

In 2019 a group of trekkers visited the Kyzyl Asker area and posted pictures of unclimbed peaks that attracted the attention of Evgeny Murin, who had climbed the south pillar of Kyzyl Asker in 2018. In the summer of 2021, Murin, Anton Kulpin, Mikhail Makeenko, and Maxim Vinchevsky (all Russian) drove to the north (Kyrgyz) side of Kyzyl Asker. After a week of rain, they received a forecast for five days of good weather and set out with 35kg packs on a trek of about 40km.

They first went south up the Dzhirnagaktu Glacier and then crossed Uigur Pass at its head (4,631m), traversed southeast to another pass of a little less than 4,800m, and descended the east side onto an unnamed Chinese glacier. This put them at a base camp south of their proposed objective, a border peak of 5,300m to 5,400m at 41°0’44.96”N, 77°18’44.27”E, later named Pik Oolong. Also visible from this camp was the untouched southwest face of Kyzyl Asker.

The south face of Oolong was split by an icy depression, and the team attempted a line on the steep granite walls to the left. On the first day they barely climbed 150m. The cracks were icy and often wide (they had not brought large cams). Discouraged by their slow progress, they retreated to base camp. Poor weather was on its way, so the team headed for home. They hope to return, but with better equipment and the easier approach from China.

— Information from Evgeny Murin, supplied by Anna Piunova, Mountain.ru



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