Sanpingfeng, West Glacier and North Ridge

China, Sichuan, Tatsienlu Massif
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2020. Publication Year: 2022.

In November 2020, Lu Haichuan, Song Yuancheng, Wan Cong, and Zhang Baolong climbed what they believed to be called Bijiashan, a rocky peak toward the north end of the Tatsienlu Massif [marked as 5,880m in Tamotsu Nakamura’s East of the Himalaya book]. Over two days, they climbed the west glacier (between this peak and the next peak to the north), which was compli- cated by crevasses, loose rock, and a steep exit onto the north ridge. The ridge itself was straightforward névé. This climb had been unauthorized, so Lu and Zhang returned in December with Bao Yifei and Wang Xuefeng, and an official permit, and summited on the 18th via the same route.

Although there has been some naming confusion in the Tatsienlu, this peak appears to be Sanpingfeng (5,917m, 30°0’8.08”N, 102° 2’52.50”E), climbed by a similar route in 1996 by Mark Carter, John Chilton, Jia Condon, Steve Must, and Rich Prohaska, all with a Fred Beckey expedition. The Chinese most likely made the second and third ascents of the peak. The name Sanpingfeng was awarded to this summit by the famous cartographer Eduard Imhof and geologist Arnold Heim, both from Switzerland, who surveyed the range in 1930. They named the three northern peaks Yipingfeng, Erpingfeng, and Sanpingfeng, which simply mean First, Second, and Third Peak.

— Information from Xia Zhongming, Germany



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