Peak 6,032m, North Ridge Attempts and Accident

Pakistan, Karakoram, Ghujerab Mountains, Karun Koh Subgroup
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2021. Publication Year: 2022.

Peak 6,032m (Peak 243 or Maqbul Sar on Jerzy Wala's orographic sketch map of the Karun Koh Mountains) lies north-northwest of Karun Koh at 36°38'55.58"N, 75°04'03.66"E. It was first attempted in 2015 by Japanese Wataru Takasaki and Tatsutaro Yamamoto, along with the Pakistani guide Sami Ullah Khan. These three climbed to around 5,600m on the north ridge before deciding they lacked the equipment to reach the summit.

In 2016, Yamamoto was not able to accompany Takasaki, so he enlisted Ullah Khan and another local climber named Sherahan. As in the previous summer, the three approached the mountain by driving about 30 minutes past Sust on the Karakoram Highway to Tapaskin, the point where the highway turns abruptly north and heads toward the Khunjerab Pass. From here they walked east along the Khunjerab River to Weir Wunak, where they camped for the night. They then turned south up the Unakin-i-Dur Valley and after two days reached base camp near the snout of the Unakin Glacier at 4,175m (36°40'24.90"N, 75°1'10.52"E). They arrived here on June 9 in sleet.

The next day they headed southwest up scree slopes to gain the hanging valley leading to the Shosho-in Pass (about 5,400m). [Maps show an old trail crossing this pass to the Shosho-in Glacier to the east, then over the Spesyngov Pass and down the West Spesyngov Glacier; AAJ 2020 has a brief report about climbing from this glacier.] They cached a tent and gear at a site for Camp 1 and descended in rain. It continued to rain the following day and in the afternoon of the 13th, so it wasn't until the 14th that the team returned to the high camp to find the tent collapsed and flooded. They moved it to the end of the moraine at 5,061m (36°39'48.66"N, 75°3'34.26"E).

On June 15, all three left the camp around 4:30 a.m. and slanted up to the crest of the north ridge of Peak 6,032m, arriving at 6:50 a.m. The altitude was around 5,600m and the way ahead corniced, steepening before the summit. Sherahan lagged due to a headache. At 7:20 a.m., Takasaki and Ullah Khan were moving unroped up the ridge with the former around 10m in front, when Takasaki noticed Ullah Khan was perhaps too close to the cornice and warned him. At that moment the cornice collapsed. Takasaki fell a short distance and with some difficulty was able to regain the crest. Of Ullah Khan there was no sign, and the debris from the collapse had continued 500m down towards the Shasho-in Valley to the east. The two remaining climbers descended to the Shasho-in Pass and eventually to base camp by 7 p.m. For Takasaki this was particularly grueling, as the constant pain in shoulder and chest from the fall was later found to be due to five fractures.

Sami Ullah Khan (36) came from the village of Raminji in the Chapursan Valley, west of Sost, and was known for his strength. He had worked as a high-altitude porter on peaks such as Gasherbrum II and Muztagh Ata. Despite a search, his body was not recovered.

— Lindsay Griffin, from information supplied by Wataru Takasaki through Kaoru Wada, Japan

Editor's Note: Peak 6,032m was climbed in December 2021 by Kazyua Hiraide and Takuya Mitoro (both from Japan), who named the mountain Sami Sar in honor of Sami Ullah Khan. See the report here.



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